Well, I don't use flash copper (I use acid copper) so I have to nickel strike the part (steel part with left over nickel plate on it) prior to a nice thick layer of acid copper.
The nickel strike (after reactivating of course) insures a nice base for the copper.
BTW: If you re-avtiated the existing nickel, by following that with the degreaser you just deactivated it (a nickel strike would have never adhered). After reactivating, I rinse in distilled water and go "hot" (power leads connected to part) into the nickel, increasing the current for the first (3) minutes to insure the part starts to plate and not form a micro rust layer on the steel areas (I use the same procedure for a bare steel part).
After polishing the copper (and degreasing of course), I put on a heavy nickel plate, reactivate it, rinse and then into the CopyChrome to give it that chrome-like color.
I only use the CopyChrome for a final "color coat" because the CopyChrome just does not lay down very fast (or as heavy) compared to the nickel I use.
Don't know if any of this helps, however, may help someone else.
See some of the stuff I plated at:
http://users.adelphia.net/%7Epatpawz/geo/plating.htm
GW