Yes, you could weld the wire to a Ti bolt head. Since aluminum wire work hardens rapidly with handling; and becomes prone to breaking, Ti wire would be a better choice. You could do this with aluminum bolts and wire too, but it won't last as long.
The problem with doing this is you won't have the 100% reliable connection where you need it the most, the connection to the work. Since you have only used mechanical connections, you can't appreciate the improvement to your anodizing welded connections make, you'll see.
By blind hole, I mean the hole is not all the way through the work. The tubing prevents the weld from touching the threads, you slide it off after welding. When you have sealed the work and are finished, you break off the wire at the bottom of the hole. You can do this in a with a small screwdriver or a piece of steel by prying the wire (pushing on it sideways) a small distance above the weld. Around 10 or 20 mils will do it. This is easier to do than it is to explain.
Additional wire or wires to stabilize the work is sometimes necessary, exactly the same as your present method. The additional wire(s) don't have any electrical purpose, so they can be just loops or hooks. If they are loose enough they won't interfere with anodizing or dyeing.
The weld blemish is a tiny shallow crater, a little larger then the diameter of the wire, smaller wires make smaller weld blemishes. If the crater is more than about 10% larger than the wire you are using too much weld energy, reduce it. Both the Type 6 and Type 5 are capable of very fine energy adjustment, way more then any conventional welder. Because of the digital readout, the repeatability of the Type 5 is better than 1%.
I sometimes cover the blemish (when the work is dry) with a single small drop of 2 part epoxy. You can mix a few drops of anodizing dye in the epoxy if you want.
You can get suitable aluminum wire over the internet from MSC, Granger, McMaster-Carr, Paramount Wire, etc. The best alloy is anything in the 1xxx series, McMaster stocks 1100 alloy wire, which is also the cheapest alloy.
BTW; RadioShack aluminum wire is 8 AWG not 12 AWG, and is much too large for most purposes.
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