Quote:
|
Originally Posted by sswee
ill probably return that unit and get a CC unit.
That's the best way to go.
Hmmm, not cold related?!? can it be the acid concentration is too low? I did the 3:1 ratio water to acid. Im using copper wire as my connections and am using 4 6000 series AL cathodes instead of the lead ones that came with the kit. Ill try to get some insulated copper wire as it is exposed. and ill solder the connections as well. 
Acid ratio won't be the cause if you mixed it right with distilled or RO water. For my curiosity, why did you switch to alum. cathodes? You say the copper wire connected to your cathodes is exposed. Are they connected to the cathodes out of the electrolyte? I use 10g automotive multistrand crimped, soldered and shrink tubed. Connections to cathodes and tank bar are bolted with SS bolts.
I have a Stainless Steel rack but after trying to plate 4 items, took out the other 3 and only tried to plate one. I initially used 20gauge AL wire and tried to connect with aligator clips directly to the wire holding the part. Then switched to Ti wire and tried it again but the amps would not rise much at all.
You will need to watch the size of the wire connected to the parts depending on the size of the part. I use from 20g to 8g wire depending on the SA of the part. If the wire is too small , the part won't get enough current and the wire will get warm.
SS
|
1) yes, I did switch to Aluminum cathodes. The connections are above the aqueous layer.
2) I have soldering experience, and will try it out and cross my fingers. The parts are not too large that Im anodizing. Paintball marker parts like body, trigger frame, barrel etc. Yesterday our SA was 1.5 SF.
Ill try again with a new rectifier that is meant for the LCD kit and give her another go and also make a smaller anodizing tank with the 5gal bucket and cathodes given by caswell and see from there whats the score. Im sure my problem is something small. All my bolts are SS along with my rack (tested with multimeter for conductive properties)