[sswee]

1. scrap part 6061 bar end,degreased w/ dishsoap and distilled water, 15 min. soaktime, followed by about 10 min of scubbing and agiation
2. part then rinsed w/ distilled water
3. part then rinsed w/ distilled water, again
4. part was then echted in caustic soda (8Table spoons)and distilled water(1gal), for 6 min (bubbling , but not TOO much) white-ish apperance
5. part was then rinsed in distilled water
6. part was then rinsed in distilled water , again

To here you are ok. The white-ish appearance is normal using an etchant. I started out using drain cleaners listing sodium hydroxide (lye) as the main ingredient.


7. part was then placed into acid( 20 percent) and distilled water solution

Problem here. Your acid concentration is too high. The LCD 3:1 (distilled water / battery acid) ratio is only 5% acid concentration. It will work on CD's up to 12 ASF. The higher concentration you have now will eat the coating faster than it can grow and making the pore size too large to hold dye.

8. power was then applied for 1 hour, 12 volt battery charger set on 2 amp slow charge

Problem. Only a manual charger will work. If it says automatic, it will not. Using a charger by itself is a let it rip method that will not give consistent results. You will need to control current with auto light bulbs or the charger plugged in to a dimmer switch. You also need a couple of DMM's to keep tabs on your voltage and current. The best no headache way is a CC capable PS. Caswell has a 3A, 5A, and 20A CC/CV PS.
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/rect.htm
A standard rectifier won't work, it needs to be CC/CV.

9. part was then rinsed in distilled water
10. part was then rinsed in distilled water, again
11.part was then placed in dye, Rit, Scarlet #5, and distilled water PH unknown temp. 140 degrees in dye for 20 min

Last problem. RIT dye. I have tried it. You can get some colors to work but not consistently and it will not hold up to UV light. I only got light colors or pastels using it and that was at 2X and 4X the recommended concentrations. When I got my dye from Caswell, it made night and day difference.

12. rinsed in distilled water
at this point all the dye came off, I was a little upset, and then I thought I'll put in the Teal dye that my 1st part looked so nice with, I placed the part in the Teal dye for 20 min it TOOK very nice mettalic Teal!!
I repeated this process step 4 step and used Navy Blue, I now have 2 VERY NICE mettalic Teal bar ends, so while my process may need some improvement I seem to be on the right track and that is what I'm after. This is only my 3rd attempt my 1st piece came out good, thin, but good, my 2nd I seem to have clearcoted the part(cold in my buddies barn in March)
but all this is what leads me to think my problem is PH...yes, no ,maybe?

I tried most all the ways to get around spending money I didn't have. Most of them cost me more in the long run than if I had just gone the right way to begin with.
A few changes and calibrations and you can get it down.
What was the dimensions on the 6061 drop you tried?
SS