[dadkar2]

I want to give you some thoughts on the Flash Copper. This is an award-winning formulation, which I have found to work better than acid copper—to the point where I have retired my acid copper tank. I have been using it for almost 1 year now, plated over 100 parts—each of which has at least 4 passes through the tank. I restore rusted, pitted steel and brass antique clock parts and when I am done they look like new, with a mirror-like luster. Here are some tips. Be careful of the current. Stay under 60mA/sq in or you will get a dull finish. The manufacturer of this stuff indicates that lead, cyanide and organic compounds will contaminate the solution, so avoid them. Be sure to clean parts thoroughly first (see my posting under SP Degreaser). You must pass the waterbreak test. A successful waterbreak test means that, immediately after a rinse, the part looks like you painted the water on—no breaks, beading, etc. and complete water coverage. Establishing a successful cleaning process is the single most important thing you can do for your plating. Consider ultrasonic cleaning or electrocleaning—whatever it takes to pass the waterbreak. Just make sure it’s clean. Maintain a ratio between area of the anodes and the article of 1.5:1. Try plating for 35-45 minutes in the flash copper, then lightly wet sand with 600 paper, then replate, and repeat. Build up to 3 coats of copper this way, then buff very lightly with white compound, then with red rouge. Flash copper will buff beautifully but you must get enough of it on. This is no different than with any plating. I have exhausted 2 sets of anodes and my first solution is still performing like the day I mixed it. ---Ken