[acidrain]

Sounds like you've been anodizing in CV mode. We all use the CC method, and the 720 rule speaks to that.
I personally start out in CV, but then switch to CC after 5min. Each alloy has a different resistance, and only after controlled experimentation was I able to graph out voltage requirements for each common alloy.

I suggest building a CC/CV unit capable of about 20v, and as many amps as you think you will need for your largest run. If you want to add the bells and whistles, more power to you... we'd all love to see that!

When assembling your apparatus, consider this:
*Aggressive agitation of the ano bath is very important to dissipate heat and bubbles at the part surface.
*Heat is generated in the ano bath, and sometimes needs to be dissipated using a chiller.
*Ano bath temperature is critical... 68-70F is what I recommend. The reason is the resistance varies with the temperature, and the anodize layer will become chalky when too warm.
*Acid strength affects the resistance and porosity of the ano layer. We use 1:3 battery acid/water for LCD anodising.
*Strip/etch, de-smut, de-grease, ano, dye, and seal steps all need to be temperature controlled, and RO/distilled water rinse is recommended between each of the steps. I suggest setting up a reverse osmosis tank for this.
*Be thinking of ways to safely heat your chemicals. I use a camp stove and large canning pots "double boiler" style to heat my buckets of chemicals.
*Racking your parts is critical. I've had excellent, trouble free connections using titanium wires bent into make-shift inside and outside clamps. Consider your racking system carefully.

OK, I think that's enough to chew on for awhile.