Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Tim Wiltse
Dewil,
I assume your battery charger is a standard car battery charger putting out 12volts. I also assume it's a manual charger and not one of those automatic types. Things like temp even though it's a small thing really is a very big deal in anodizing. First your anodizing acid needs to be 70 degrees(F). It can be alittle higher and alittle lower but 70 degrees (F) is the norm. The cooler below 70 the longer you will need to anodizing and the warmer the shorter time is needed. Do not let your tank get above 80 degrees.
Now hopefully none of the others with flame on this but next ditch the light bulbs and connect straight up to your cathodes. The charger will set the amps itself. Not really knowing your power supply for now run one part at a time as it looks like you have about 50sq inches per part. Run your part for 60 minutes! Rinse the part but do not touch the part with your hands in any way. Don't let it bang against the sides of a metal sink etc. You have to have hot dye! Warm just won't cut it. A simple little cooking thermometer is cheap and you can not get away without knowing your temps!!!!!! Repeat you need to know your temps!!!!!! 140 degrees(F) is what the dyes call for. I keep most of my dyes around 130 to 140 degrees. To cold and it will take all day to get color if any at all depending on the dye color. To hot of dye and you will start to seal the part before it has taken all the color it can.
Going straight from the dye to BOILING water is just asking to have the dye leach out of your part! What you want is STEAM if you don't use nickle sealer. Hang the part over a boiling pot of water. Really get it boiling and hang it in the steam coming off the pot. GEt your part right in the middle of the steam cloud a couple of inches from the water. Let it steam for 20 or 30 minutes and then it should be safe to drop into the water if you want. When I first started and used water to seal I just hung parts in the steam and never really used the boiling water. It takes longer(maybe an hour) with steam but at least you don't lose the color. Remember do not touch the part till it's sealed or you will leave finger prints!
PH is important with the dyes but don't worry about that for now as long as your dyes are new which they sound like they are.
In the mean time get your hands on some scrap parts that you can run testing with. Get a know aluminum type as some types of aluminum can't be anodized i.e. alot of casting types. 6061 is great for a newbie!
LAter,
Tim
|
Hello Tim!
I have earlier done what you said and just used the charger without any bulbs and got descent results (with fabric dye). If I dont get it wrong, without any bulbs the bath draws as much current as is possible, depending on size etc. That current is considered to be a too high Asf, right? With bulbs or any other resistance you limit how much current can go through the bath, therefore getting the right ASF--> poresize for dying, right?
IsnŽt that an inportaint issue?
Thanks for explaining the importance of right temperature in dying bath and anno-bath. I currently have my line in the garage and rightnow its very cold here in sweden, better find some way to turn the temperature up a bit. IŽll try the steaming procedure next time!
Thanx for your input mate!