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Originally Posted by UrineMachine
jrow,
Thanks very much for the input. the clear coat is definitely cracking - it's probaly due to the curbed marks lifting it after elements get under it. Can this "lab metal" (where do you get it?) be polished? I'd like to weld the rims but I don't know anyone around here that can do aluminum well enough without costing me a bajillion dollars (Wheel collision is near me, in Bath PA but they're astronomical with prices). I know, you have to pay to play, but I like the do it yourself style where I can PC stuff for like $20  Is there anyone from PA that you know that can weld them if needed? I kind of think that this lab metal stuff, if it is what I am imagining, would work. |
Get into the yellow pages of your phone book and look for welders there should be some there.
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Ok found the lab metal on Caswell
Like I said, is the lab metal polish-able? Can you tell? It says it can only be exposed to 420F for 20 mins, but when powdercoating I might have to bake it longer! What do you recommend? Thanks for the input so far.
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Yes Lab Metal can be polished BUT it will not equal the shine that raw aluminum will give you when you polish it. Not worth the effort! They make a high temperature Lab Metal but you shouldn't need it.
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Oh also - my buddy who is gracious enough to let me use his ovens/gun/blasting setup runs a plastic/rubber injection company - I dunno if I'd be able to put aluminum oxide in their blaster, its a huge commercial thing and they have it loaded with glass beads because thats what they use on their products for really specific stuff. I use the beads, can I bead blast the wheels? Or is aluminum oxide a must?
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Glass bead can be used BUT it will leave minute nicks in the aluminum that must be sanded out before you powder coat. You will have to out-gas the wheel before you powder coat regardless of which media you use. Then recheck the surface to make sure its smooth and clean. The better you prep the surface the better the powder will come out! Clean Clean Clean!
John