Quote:
Originally Posted by wcb1863
David,
One observation and some questions.
I really admire you "master builders" with all the equipment that needed to build super duper projects. "I just took my Whopper 310 with the left threaded micron head and set it to .000004 tolerance in my Framo 5400 jig flipped the with and Voila a strut is born."
My "shop" consists of a jig saw (small) a Dremel set, a regular drill and some usual household tools.
OK, ok I'll muck along and hope for the best.
Questions:
1- You supplied three bow fin struts -- would it be practical to use one of then as a bell crank for the stern planes? (Incidentally did Mike Caswell relay my email about missing resin Pieces (i.e., both prop tubes and one dunce cap?).
2- Had a very bad time trying to find MG Chemicals Ferric Chloride -- no one in the greater Tampa area has any (most never heard of it.) One group would order it for me for $56.00 for 16 ounces. MG Chem. referred me to Allied who will send the stuff for $6.70. Is there a more common chemical that would serve the same purpose?
3- Once you glue the stern halves together how is the bell crank attached to the rudder post?
4- Why do you want to sand the hull to the point where the Revell detail is removed?
5- Last question (believe I know the answer but must ask). I live on a salt water canal in Clearwater, FL (My wife and I sail quite a bit – long distance stuff.) Can the sub operate in salt water, I imagine buoyancy would be the first of several problem but I thought I ask just to be sure. See we have a dock in our back yard with extremely calm water when the hurricanes are elsewhere.
All best,
Walter
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Walter,
Smart-ass!
You indeed could press that extra bow plane strut into service as the stern plan bell crank. I never thought of that ... damn!
Drill out the hole in the stern plane operating shaft to get the bore to make a loose fit to the strut ... er .... bell crank and CA it in place. Neat Idea, Walter. But, be careful: if you stress that plastic piece too much (a tight fit between bell crank and bell crank bore) and the operating shaft will break on you!
Radio Shack (not all stores, however) carry Ferric Chloride acid and supply it for those who cut their own circuit boards. However, if you dunk the metal parts in vinegar overnight you'll get the same pitting we're after.
The rudder bell crank slips on as you install the rudder operating shaft up into the upper bearing -- this is explained in the DVD, no? Or, is that something I should plug into DVD #4? I don't remember.
The removal of the kits weld lines is an aesthetic decision, Walter. You're call.
You can operate the model in salt water, but you'll have to run a significant fraction of the SubDriver's antenna up high in the periscope shears -- you need that antenna in the air as salt water effectively shields against RF at this end of the radio spectrum.
Send me an e-mail with your mailing address and I'll get those parts off to you post haste!
David,