Quote:
Originally Posted by wcb1863
David,
Many thanks for the good advice. I'll cut the smaller loop and shave the shaft on the strut to fit, loosely, a hole 1/32 (  ) drilled into the stern planes axle.
I don't remember seeing the final assemby of the stern section. You do very carefully explain how the gadget works but don't (I think) show the actual final assembly. (I did find it easier to cut the lower skeg before glueing the forward portion to the port stern section.) Would it be easier to put the rudder in place and then glue the stern section together around it?
You do mention that the aft end of the skeg is adhered with a type of glue but I can't make out exactly what that glue is -- seems it would have to be a sturdy adhesive as the skeg is keeping the rudder from falling out the bottom of the boat.
You show the 1/16th copper wire used to attach the bow planes but not tacked in place. Are they CA'd or "welded" in place on disk 4? Would there be any great harm in CAing them in place when the halves of the planes are welded? Of course the strut and the axle would have to be attached at that time. My grooves in the planes interior are no way near the beauties that you accomplished so a bandaid might be to CA them in the monster wide gullies I created.
Are there any modifications that must be made to the sail? If not I could put it together while waiting for the new rudder. Saw your mention of an antenna through the periscope shears. How does it get through the tube and what is the diameter? If somewhat thin could it replace the boat's radio antenna running the length of the aft deck. Of course if it's too thick it would really ugly up the boat.
My mailing address is:
Walter Betkowski
306 Windward Island
Clearwater, FL 33767
I know I am getting to be a real pest but can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate your help.
Best,
Walter |
Walt,
Whow! 1/32 is too small a pin-hole combination, the soft white-metal of that bell crank will bend. Shave it to 1/16" to fit a like sized bore in the stern plane operating shaft.
Yeah, work out the rudder and stern plane linkage (make them work to your satisfaction) before you assemble the stern section to the hull. I've changed the rudder-stern plane access scheme: I've dropped the idea of gluing the removable skeg piece (with RTV sealing adhesive) to attaching it with machine screws -- the skeg piece remains 'wild', it being secured with two 2-56 machine screws.
That would be 1/16" brass wire, not copper. Not a big deal. The axle pins are held in with little dabs of RTV adhesive (this permits removal of the planes from the operating shafts later, if needed). The strut pins are CA'ed in place and the hole at the leading edge of plane filled and faired in -- it'll take major surgery to dig those out, but you'll really have to cream the boat to warrant replacement of the strut to a plane. So, you're curing carving sins with CA used as a filler? Works for me. Helps to sprinkle on baking soda over the CA, makes a quick filler.
Naw, leave the SubDriver antenna below deck. Yes, build the sail stock, just open up a few big holes in the deck of the bridge and holes in the deck of the hull under where the sail sits -- you need these holes to vent the sail when you dive the boat.
knock off the sprue nubs and flash lines from each piece before you assembly the parts -- and use cohesive cement throughout, no CA! You'll find the fit very good. And watch out for those small gun pieces, they like to fall into the carpet.
David,