[acidrain]

I degrease with lacquer thinner first, then heated degreaser. Only dunk the part long enough to pass the water break test.

I don't know about Caswells degreaser being TSP (I doubt it), but it does dull the part, so only degrease long enough to pas WB.

Etching the part is only done when the aluminum is old and dirty. Forget about doing that if your parts are well prepared.

Neutralizing the acid after ano is something that has proven to cause problems. As long as you rinse well, you don't need it. Spray rinse first, then dunk, then spray again just before going into the dye tank. Pay special attention to the holes, nooks and crannies where acid might be trapped.

I wouldn't go lower than 4.5 CD.
6 amps per square foot works well, and is easy to calculate. That's what I suggest.

Forget about anodizing to PAR... use the 720 rule calculator. For 6 amps CD, you'll get a full 1 mil in two hours, .75mil in 1-1/2 hours, and .5 in 1 hour. Ano to 1 mil for black and dark colors, .75 for medium colors, and .5 for clear, gold, copper.

Lead cathode will last longer, but makes the bath a hazardous waste. A large cathode is better than too small.