The LCD and hard anodizing are different. Hard anodizing requires higher voltage and a colder anodizing solution, which generally would mean a chiller. The high voltage will add more heat to the solution than either standard or LCD anodizing, which means the chiller needs even more capacity to keep the temperature down from standard anodizing. By using a large tank relative to the part, and limiting the amount of power dispersed to a modest level you can get by without a chiller when doing standard and especially LCD anodizing. With hard anodizing it's not much of an option. All anodizing needs the temperature to be controlled, standard and LCD works in the 65º - 75º range and if the anodizing process raises the temperature too much beyond this a chiller is required also.
You could learn the hard anodizing I am sure with time, research and investing in the required equipment, but as far as buying a kit and immediately turning out large top quality jobs is probably not too likely. I don't know of any hard anodizing kit available either.
Hard anodizing colors are typically limited to dark colors like black and dark green, as the anodizing process leaves a dark color, and it's hard to dye light over dark. The only required heating of the part after anodizing is sealing it in boiling water, although I understand there are various approaches with hard anodizing according to the requirements, such as corrosion resistance.
It may be that unless your volume justifies the investment, that sending the parts out to a commercial hard anodizer. Another solution to protect the color might be to clear powder coat over standard anodizing that can give a very attractive look.
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