A little background information: The LCD kit (and most other methods popularly available on the internet for DIY anodizers) will give you a Type II anodize, usually in the 0.0002"-0.001" range. Standard Type II anodizing usually operates around 12-15 A/ft^2, but the LCD method has been modified to operate at around 3-6 A/ft^2, thus minimizing the size of power supply necessary (making it cheaper).
A 'Hard Anodize' is designated a Type III anodize. Here's some of the ways it differs from type II anodizing:
- Type II acid bath temp is usually around 68-74F. Type III acid baths need to be kept around 32F.
- Type III acid baths usually are less concentrated than Type II. I don't know specific concentration values, but the 1:3 mix of LCD should work well for both.
- Type III current density is usually between 24-36 A/ft^2.
The 2 main thing you'll need for Type III anoding is a large chiller to keep your electrolyte solution cold and a much larger power supply. I believe you will need at least 60 volts, possible more, to truly get a hardcoat. So, if you're looking to anodize 1 square foot pieces with both methods, you'll need about a 0-5 amp, 0-12V power supply for LCD and
at least a 0-24 amp, 0-60V power supply for hardcoating. You can see that the power supply will be MUCH more expensive. I doubt you'll find that kind of power supply for less than $1000.
If it's worth it to you, you might do some further looking into it. For most of us small guys, we generally send out any Type III work to a larger shop.