View Single Post
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2004, 11:20 PM
Fibergeek Fibergeek is offline
Metal Finishing Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 539
Fibergeek is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

Regarding my combination agitation / cooling system:

Rereading the threads by Neilfj and NeoMoses on the subject (agitation system) will help. Do a search.

The pump is a Little Giant 3-MDX, go look on their website www.littlegiantpump.com These are acid rated smaller industrial models, they will hold up to constant use. These are not self priming. I dealt with this by holding the tank off of the floor about 2 feet with an aluminum stand, and cutting a drain hole in the bottom of the tank. The drain is set up with 1/2 NPT PVC bulkhead fittings. This goes to a polypropylene barbed fitting for the 5/8" ID plastic tubing that both the pump and chiller use. The "Tank" is a 7 gal. plastic office waste paper basket from Staples, its cheap and the form factor is perfect for my purposes. Draining from the bottom and placing the tank above the pump solves the self priming issue by use of gravity.

The plumbing is like this; electrolyte is sucked out of the tank from the bottom drain, and routed to the intake on the pump. The pump output goes to the chiller input. The chiller output goes back into the tank via a Tee, which splits its input to both ends of a 3/8" ID PVC pipe with the agitation holes drilled in it. Like in NeoMoses' method, tank corners are turned with PVC elbows.

The chiller is a 1/4 HP unit purchased from www.aquastealth.com Its an ordinary aquarium chiller for salt water tanks. Mine has its thermostat modified to go down to 32 deg. F.. If you don't intend to do Hardcoat, you don't need 32 degree F. electrolyte, and you can get these chillers from numerous suppliers, shop around. You do want one with a titanium heat exchanger. Sid's setup is probably too big for a 1/4 HP unit, he may need a 1/2 or 1 HP unit.

I did add some niceties like quick release connectors between units, and a 2 way valve before the Tee. The valve allows me to quickly and neatly pump the electrolyte out of the tank into another container, since I don't anodize on a routine basis. It also makes flushing the system out with water easy to do.

You may have trouble finding some of the plumbing fittings, McMaster-Carr has most everything.

I was paranoid at first about something failing and squirting electrolyte all over. It didn't happen. I'm a crappy plumber, if I could make this thing liquid tight without undue effort anyone can. Do your testing with plain water first, of course.
Reply With Quote