Lead plates, anodising voltages and dyes

[whistule]

A few questions

1. I am using a some lead sheet for cathodes but I am noticing that a white/grey layer is forming on the surface and sinking to the bottom of the tank as a precipitate - is this standard or is this perhaps sign of some inpruity in the Lead?

2. I have a 30 amp battery charger which is switchable between 12v and 24v but doesn't seem to anodise on the 12v setting at present - it's only successful on the 24v setting. I have infact tried another charger in its place and had the same results. Could this be caused by a weak connection with the parts or is there another explanation? Would it be advisable to run the charger on 24 or 12v irrespective of problem?

3. I have been using caswells colour dyes (I really like the green) but because of the cost I have had to keep the dying tanks smaller than the rest of the anodising line which is obviously a pain in the ass. Has anyone tried diluting the dyes down further and are there any other effects beyond making the colour slightly more pale? Is it possible to compensate for this or having the dyes at a lower temperature by leaving the anodised parts in the dyes for longer?

4. What would be the recommended size of cathodes to anodise 3 ftsq surface area. I am finding parts are burning away at present!

Any help is much appreciated.

Misha
Scotland

[whistule]

I seam to have found that after you anodise at 24v the part will stop anodising at all using a lower voltage. ??

[mcaswell]

A new procedure is about to emerge. Be patient please.