PH level in Ano Tank?

[p8ballmafia]

Hello,, I've looked around here to find out what is the correct PH level on the ano tank but I was not successful. If I missed it I apologize, but could some one tell me what it is? I don’t know if its that crucial but I’m having trouble with PAR using the traditional 4.5/144 formula. I’ve measured and measured my parts and played with different amp settings and either I reach PAR in a short time (like 40 minutes) or I don’t reach it at all, (well I shot down the power supply after 3 hrs). The parts seem to come out ok in both instances but with different tones in color. Do I even need to reach PAR? Thanks !

[sswee]

Checking ph on your tank is useless. To check acid level, you would have to titrate the tank.
Are all the parts of the same material grade?
Calculate the SA of the part, go by the 720 rule. Using a 4.5 ASF, run for 160 minutes to get 1 mil coating. Trying to go by PAR is difficult as the different material grades grow at different rates. If you are curious about it, check out Fibergeeks charts in his member album.
SS

[woodjames]

The ph won't always give a good reading, as alkaline cleaners get dragged in, and pretreatments that involve acids get dragged in...etc... Not to mention very low ph's are difficult to measure. Titration comes into play when the amount of aluminum in the bath changes the specific gravity. But in anodizing baths it's fairly constant, so truly the easiest/quickest way is to take a specific gravity reading. When you notice the s.g. is changing, your bath is getting contaminated with something. Sulfuric at different concentrations has published info as far as what the s.g. is at a given %. Don't bother with all the stuff for titrating yet, just keep taking s.g. readings, then when they change, go forward with titration.

You should be able to find a s.g. meter that will cover the range you need at a pool store or auto-store. You dunk it in, take a reading and move forward.

[newanodize]

The ph won't always give a good reading, as alkaline cleaners get dragged in, and pretreatments that involve acids get dragged in...etc... Not to mention very low ph's are difficult to measure. Titration comes into play when the amount of aluminum in the bath changes the specific gravity. But in anodizing baths it's fairly constant, so truly the easiest/quickest way is to take a specific gravity reading. When you notice the s.g. is changing, your bath is getting contaminated with something. Sulfuric at different concentrations has published info as far as what the s.g. is at a given %. Don't bother with all the stuff for titrating yet, just keep taking s.g. readings, then when they change, go forward with titration.

You should be able to find a s.g. meter that will cover the range you need at a pool store or auto-store. You dunk it in, take a reading and move forward.

If you are getting drag ins from the cleaners and the deoxide you got to look at your how you are rinishing. the MOST important rinse is the rinse before the acid bath. That is why some incorporate double rinses before entering the acid.


Also, if you do the ph of the acid you are going to get a low number. This means nothing like said before. Titrate your bath to get the grams/liter concentration and aluminum concentration and that is all that should be in your tank. sulfuic aic and aluminum NO other contaminants.

[p8ballmafia]

Thanks! wikipedia here I come!!!