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I agree, the more options and ideas presented, the better others can design something that suits their situation.
I don't bother agitating any of the other tanks. I really don't see a requirement for it in my situation, but I can see how it would be a benefit if you are doing small items or processing quantities of items. In my situation, for the degreaser, deoxidizer, and dye tanks, I just swish the part around every once in a while. The sealing tank, I don't see a need for it, unless you are using the new room temp sealer. The original sealer requires it be brought to a rolling boil, which provides any movement of the solution that may be required. Like you said...it works for you and your situation so there is no reason to change it, nor would I recommend it. |
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neilfj, can you post some pictures of that pump and/or tell us where you bought it? From the sounds of it, it's very similar to my pumps. Is it a mag-drive pump?
If so, I guess my original idea wasn't too far off, then. I'll be using flexible PVC tubing and doing something similar with small holes in it to cause little 'jets' to circulate the electrolyte. Even though this pump is quite a bit larger than 900 LPH, I think it should scale nicely, as I have a large tank (~ 30 Gallons, with ~15 gallons of electrolyte.) Thanks guys (and gals if applicable)! |
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Actually, I got the pump from Caswell's to test as part of another project. It is a mag-induction motor. It isn't a product that they carry and it was the only one he had. The test is still being conducted so I can't give out much more information, but I'm hoping to have it completed with the next 1-2 weeks. I think we finally conquered some of the hardware and equipment problems I've been having, at least I'll know for sure when UPS shows up tomorrow with replacements.
The 500 gph pump should be more than suitable for your setup. The Boyu 1300 pump, even though it is rated for 900lph, it has very little pressure (and if your familiar with pumps, it has a max. head height of less than 6'). What you have to be concerned with is the pressure and velocity of your output. The higher the pressure/velocity, the more likely you are to splash the electrolyte. Like fibergeek said previously, as long as the movement of electrolyte is sufficient to keep the hydrogen bubbles from sticking to your work piece, that's all you need. As long as you are positive the drive shaft is stainless steel, then you won't have a problem. If you have the slightest doubt, use the 700 gph pump with the ceramic shaft. The electrolyte will have no effect on the stainless or ceramic shafts. But if there is a chance that the shaft is steel, then you would contaminate your electrolyte, not to mention dissolving the pump shaft. |
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Yes a few of us have been working on it to figure out a way to use things that will not get into the acid. The problem is that agitation is not that good of a deal. Think about it guys if you agitate your tank it kicks the scum off the bottom of the tank and lands it right on top of the nearest surface parallel to the bottom of the tank. Most likely that will be your nice clean part you have been working on to keep clean so hard. The tiny air bubbles do not stir up the bottom sediment in the tank. Also the magnet is made of iron yes some of them are covered in plastic but it gets pinholes in it and then it adds iron to you acid. We even thought of using the magnetic stirrer that chemists use to stir things for a long time. Again moves the acid to much and it then put sediment all over EVERYTING sorry Dray
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You realize this is a 3-1/2 year old thread, don't you?
Just to clarify, I used the CHEAPEST of pond pumps with no ill effects at all. The impellers always seemed to be the first to go, but the shafts (ceramic) always lasted, and the iron magnets never became exposed. Meh, air agitation is good for me.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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