Trying to aereate larger tanks EFFECTIVELY. HELP!!!!!!!!

[lastone75]

you can probly use a small air bursh compresser they produce about a constint 30 psi. also a sears (craftsman) compresser that is oilless would work. with a comoresser you would still need to run an in line water/ oil separater and that should be sufficant since you shouldn't be realy needed more then 20 to 30psi.

[Easttex]

I've done a bit more research and found most lines that are using air for agitation run regenerative blowers. They are kind of like a turbo squirrel cage fan of sorts (multiple vanes inside an enclosure mounted on the side of an electric motor.) The ones that I have been looking at for a setup the size I'm running are about $250-500 unfortunately. They are high flow low pressure oilless air source....Just what the doctor ordered. I'm going to dig a little deeper trying to find a cheaper alternative.
Thanks for the input,
EasTTex
PS I'm still entertaining good ideas.

[whistule]

Eastex,

Good work. Those certainly look the ticket for air agitation. I am wondering if you have considered filtration into the equation. Here's some info >> http://www.pfonline.com/articles/pfd0320.html . I notice commercial systems use either air or pump agitation with 'shower head' like dispersers in the tanks to give wide coverage rather than a collection of single streams. The pumps seam to be connected in a loop dragging solution from the bottom of the tank and through a filter and then the pump. The main reason for pump agitation seams to be they can add in filter the solutions in the same process hence prolonging the life of the chemicals. I can't see myself going to these lengths for some time but interesting all the same.

Fiber, I'm thinking the reason an aquarium air pump is sufficient for me is because despite them being bigger all my tanks are tall and thin so it takes fewer holes in the air line to get good enough coverage.

[Fibergeek]

Whistule,
If you have no hydrogen bubbles sticking to your work, your method works for you. Nothing succeeds like success.

I really shouldn't complain; I've been called worse things, but my moniker is Fibergeek (or Fibregeek) not Fiber Geek.

[potsked]

is it possible to agitate the parts without circulating the electrolyte or removing them from water?

i was thinking if one could create the right type of tank bar one could simply attach some sort of vibrating tool or motor to cause the parts to vibrate in the electrolyte, thus removing the hydrogen bubbles.

i mention this because i just bought a whole **** load of equipment that pertained to aeration and then i found this thread.

the aeration wasn't working for me, and i was hoping someone could find a tool or motor that could vibrate on the rack while the parts are being anodized.

[neilfj]

potsked;

To answer your question, yes, it is possible to agitate the parts rather than the solution, if you're careful.

Unless you have something to control the amount of movement, you run the risk of splashing the electrolyte and even creating an acid mist, which we are trying to eliminate. The other risk is that the constant and rapid movement required may also loosen your electrical connection.

[potsked]

well i understand the danger of splashing the elctrolyet, but that would be negated if the amount of vibration needed was low enough. do you know how much vibration would be necessary to remove the hydrogen bubbles?

I have considered the loosiening of the parts, but i was planning on upgrading to titanium alligator clips to secure the parts sooner or later and figured they would have enough of a grip. would you know if they provide adequate hold?

[neilfj]

I don't have any way to measure the amount of agitation required. Each setup is going to be different, depending on the size and shape of the item being anodized, the amount of electrolyte, the size of the container, etc.

The general rule would be "as rapid as possible without splashing electrolyte", but even this is going to be trial & error to some extent.

My feeling is that the aligator clips are not going to be sufficient for the LCD process. The area of the anode under the clips is not going to be water tight, so it will develop a anodized coating, which will cause an increase in resistance, which means it will draw a higher voltage to deliver the proper current density. Depending on the capacity of your power supply, it may peak the voltage before the surface develops a sufficient coating for dyeing.

You may have to increase your current density so that the power supply doesn't reach its max voltage. It's kind of a balancing act in that by increasing the current density too high may reduce the dyeability of the work.

One of the critical aspects of Fibergeek's LCD process is that the connection to the work piece be watertight. Although the clips will work with the limitations and potential issues previously mentioned, it is highly recommended that the anode wire be securely attached to the work piece.