Input needed by some of the inhouse pro's.....

[Sid03]

What effect will the dissolved aluminum content have in respect tot eh LCD ano method? I have anodized several times in this bath, so it isnt NEW. On the other hand, the very first time I anodized with the old method turned out fine, so thats why im wondering how much the aluminum content in the acid bath makes. Plus, I didnt see it mentioned anywhere before.

[Fibergeek]

Like I said; if you have effective current limiting, you don't need any Al content. The lamp dimmer provides the current limiting if your using it as instructed.

The Al content doesn't hurt until it builds up to about 12 grams per liter, this applies to any anodizing method, not just LCD. The Al goes into solution at a rate of around 1 gram per sq.ft. anodized to 0.8 mils thickness. If you had 3 gallons of electrolyte, this translates to about 136 sq.ft. anodized. You'll toss the electrolyte long before you get that much because of dirt and crud that will find its way into your tank. That's why it wasn't mentioned. Anodizing with 12g/l Al content is reported to cause "mottling" problems in the anodized coating, but I have never experienced this.

The "let it rip" method is essentially a craps shoot; it depends on the electrical system degrading the same way and to the same degree every time (fat chance). There is no way to conclusively tell when you are finished. If the proponents of "let it rip" actually understood electricity, they would realize how unreliable it is.

[potsked]

well excuse me, but i belive most commercial electroplating shops use the higher current densities. if they are so unreliable, how do you account for the industry wide standard?

also, i have come to appreciate what ron newman was saying about detecting PAR. when the part is near PAR, the voltage is varying extremely slowly. So while you may say its only a matter of detecting when it stops increasing and starts to decrease, that change is extremely small and would be hard to detect on anything without a very good voltage detector.

While the LCD may help people deal with obtaining larger more expensive power supplies, ive yet to be won over on the quality aspect of it.

[Fibergeek]

Yes, most commercial shops use 12 - 18 A/sqft current densities, but they don't use the ignorant "let it rip" method. They ramp up the voltage, which mimics a current source, the same thing the lamp dimmer does. I am against "let it rip" not high current density.

The slow peak in PAR only occurs at low current density; less than 6 A/sq,ft., it can be used at any current density. At 12 A/sq.ft. for example it is very apparent. I have a curve for 12 A/sq.ft. in my paper if you bothered to look. Don't feel bad, Ron missed that too.

As for as the "quality aspect" of LCD, you might try actually following the instructions, it does seem to help.

BTW, the dye manufacturer for Caswell does not recommend dyeing below 110 deg. F, 140 deg. F being recommended. They don't recommend room temp. dyeing at all. I wonder why that is?

[Sid03]

Fibergeek- Please dont resign just yet....I know your the brawn behind the LCD anodizing and it's looking like I may need some advice from you!

Could somebody give me a decent outline on the best method of detecting PAR with the LCD method? Another thing I was wondering.....if anodizing several different sized parts at the same time, do they actually all reach PAR at the same time? Thanks guys!

[Tim Wiltse]

All I am saying is that the "old" method works very well for me and for the size of parts I run. I just choose not to use the LCD method. If the old method is so awful and Caswell Plating is totally against it then I want all the money back that I spent here for them selling a defective prduct!. I believe both methods need to be supported as they BOTH work. Though I am sure it(LCD) has helped alot of people that are power source impaired. I thank you for all the time you put into the instructions as it was very good for me to read. You don't have to tell people that are here looking for help to " if you would read the instructions" or what you said to me. Just don't forget that alot of those here are just starting out. Don't scare them away because they are at the bottom of the learning curve. We all were there at one point. I also want to point out that I am not the only person here that feels this way just the one that is saying anything.

Take care,
Tim Wiltse

[mcaswell]

RED DYE PROBLEMS


Seal must be at a boil @ 1oz per gal
pH 5.5 - 6
If not at a boil, or conc is weak & pH too high it makes red bleed a lot.
If murky = pH too high. if clear & green = OK
Other colors will not do this, so comparisons are worthless.

[48Buick]

Hi All:
Interesting thread!
Maybe a little advise if I could......
Its easy to take offence and give offence over the internet when no one can clean your clock if they want to.
I have found the best thing to do is simply sidestep the B.S. and let it roll right past you. It will wind up somewhere else and not on you.
Best thing is to concentrate on what the forum is about and simply help each other the any way we can.
Lord knows good forums that help each other are hard to find..........so lets make the effort to advance each others skills instead of taking pot shots.
48BUICK

[Tim Wiltse]

48Buick,


Well said!

Later,
Tim

[duke]

MEGGA DITTO'S

cheers