Quick question on "old" ano method......

[Fibergeek]

Yes, the distance does effect the circuit conductance, which is what the PS sees. Do what you can do.

[Fibergeek]

Regarding my combination agitation / cooling system:

Rereading the threads by Neilfj and NeoMoses on the subject (agitation system) will help. Do a search.

The pump is a Little Giant 3-MDX, go look on their website www.littlegiantpump.com These are acid rated smaller industrial models, they will hold up to constant use. These are not self priming. I dealt with this by holding the tank off of the floor about 2 feet with an aluminum stand, and cutting a drain hole in the bottom of the tank. The drain is set up with 1/2 NPT PVC bulkhead fittings. This goes to a polypropylene barbed fitting for the 5/8" ID plastic tubing that both the pump and chiller use. The "Tank" is a 7 gal. plastic office waste paper basket from Staples, its cheap and the form factor is perfect for my purposes. Draining from the bottom and placing the tank above the pump solves the self priming issue by use of gravity.

The plumbing is like this; electrolyte is sucked out of the tank from the bottom drain, and routed to the intake on the pump. The pump output goes to the chiller input. The chiller output goes back into the tank via a Tee, which splits its input to both ends of a 3/8" ID PVC pipe with the agitation holes drilled in it. Like in NeoMoses' method, tank corners are turned with PVC elbows.

The chiller is a 1/4 HP unit purchased from www.aquastealth.com Its an ordinary aquarium chiller for salt water tanks. Mine has its thermostat modified to go down to 32 deg. F.. If you don't intend to do Hardcoat, you don't need 32 degree F. electrolyte, and you can get these chillers from numerous suppliers, shop around. You do want one with a titanium heat exchanger. Sid's setup is probably too big for a 1/4 HP unit, he may need a 1/2 or 1 HP unit.

I did add some niceties like quick release connectors between units, and a 2 way valve before the Tee. The valve allows me to quickly and neatly pump the electrolyte out of the tank into another container, since I don't anodize on a routine basis. It also makes flushing the system out with water easy to do.

You may have trouble finding some of the plumbing fittings, McMaster-Carr has most everything.

I was paranoid at first about something failing and squirting electrolyte all over. It didn't happen. I'm a crappy plumber, if I could make this thing liquid tight without undue effort anyone can. Do your testing with plain water first, of course.

[Sid03]

so nothing in those pumps or chillers are anything but Ti or plastic(that the fluid contacts)? Where is that pump located on the little giant site?

I remember that somebody had a problem with grease coming out of the pump and then I believe the pump burned up.......was that just a fluke?

[Fibergeek]

Look under magnetic drive pumps. There is a chemical resistance chart, and all components and what they're made of is listed in the data sheets.
The 10% sulfuric acid line on the chart will cover all usable concentrations of anodizing electrolyte.

I think it was M_D (?) who initially had some problems, I believe he now has things sorted out. These pumps can be quickly disassembled without tools for cleaning. There was some silicone (?) grease inside as a preservative, I cleaned it out with a paper towel. You are not supposed to run these pumps dry for any length of time, that will damage them.

[M_D]

The first pump I used was one just like NeoMoses used. I ran it for a little while, and had problems with the anodizing that I assumed was from the grease. So I cleaned it all out, and it ate itself up shortly after that.

Then I bought a Little Giant Pump similar to the one Fibergeek mentioned. I cleaned the grease out of it before the first use and it has run hundreds of hour so far. I haven't inspected it for a while, but last time I did it looked good and didn't appear to be wearing excessively.

[Sid03]

looks like the orings in those little giant pumps will be effected by the acid, and the ceramagnet isnt listed under the 0-10% sulfuric acid micture, but has a low rating under the higher acid mixture.

My ano tank is 15 gallon, will that pump be enough?

[M_D]

This is the one I have, and it works well in a 55 gallong tank.

Little Giant Chemical pump
3-MD-HC series
1/12 HP Open Fan cooled
Intermittent Liquid Temp: 200F
Specific gravity: 1.1
Intake: 3/4 FNPT
Discharge: 1/2 MNPT
Glass-filled Ryton Magnet Housing
Glass-filled Ryton Volute
Glass-filled Ryton Impeller
Viton O-ring
Ceramic Thrust Washers
Ceramic Shaft
Weight (lbs) 8.8


They have several grades, you need one for high corrosives. I think I paid about $150 each at Grainer. I found a cheaper place the other day, about $135-$140 if I remember correctly, but I can't seem to find it now.

[Sid03]

I imagine that would be a touch much for my tank then, dont you think? They make so many models.....guess ill have to read up and see what the differences are

[M_D]

I forgot to mention that I used it in a 15 gallon tank and it worked fine.

[Sid03]

So it wasnt too much for the 15gallon? I dont really want acid splashin everywhere.


Fibergeek- You have any examples of 2000 series ano curve? How will it act when it hits PAR, start to rise?