Screws and small parts

[kickn]

Any suggestions on how to rack for small screws/etc. I was thinking an aluminum perforated tray or something - whats normally used?

Could a strip of led with small holes that the screws could be threaded into slighly work?

[Fibergeek]

Any of those things mentioned could work. Remember that the object is a liquid tight connection. If you don't have this you know what will happen.

"Basket" anodizing is common for small hardware. This involves a stainless steel or titanium basket (lots of holes in it) and a perforated lid with a means to tightly squeeze all of the hardware into good contact with each other. This leaves small unanodized patches where contact was made. This method also requires extremely vigorous agitation in all of the anodizing, rinsing, dyeing, and sealing steps.

(edited for correction)

All those things except just letting the hardware lay in a tray, a lousy connection is practically assured with that.

[kickn]

I think I may go for a strip of lead as its cheap and the surface area would be as minimal as possible. I want a balance between a good finish and efficiency. Quickly screwing these into pre-drilled holes shoudl be easy and as far as I'm aware the lead will hold up to multiple processes will it not?

Question on STainless: is this okay to use in the tank as ali, titanium, and lead?

[Fibergeek]

Wernick, Pinner, and Sheasby describe large production tanks that use stainless steel cathodes.

Stainless steel is less conductive than either aluminum or lead, not that different from titanium. I haven't looked into this, but the right stainless steel alloy could be a viable lower cost alternative to titanium racking. We continue to recommend that no metals other than aluminum, lead, and titanium be allowed in the anodizing tank. Copper remains the worst common metal.

[mcaswell]

Has anyone ever tried that old aluminum flyscreen? That should be very easy to push small objects into and it won't contaminate anything.

[kickn]

no - but its worth a try

how about also - some perforated aluminum sheet - you could get a size thats just under the screw size and thread it slightly.

[sgunn911]

I have tried the aluminum screening used for screen doors on small screws. Out of 30 screws not one kept the connection and wasn't able to get any finished. I did end up with a really nice red aluminum mesh though.....

[kickn]

I was thinking of something heaver - in the 'perforated sheet' class vs. the mesh area. - any success with that?

[kickn]

I know i've restarted this thread and then remembered this one - sorry guys - please don't hit me

how about some of what we call over here modders mesh - i'm pretty sure its made out of aluminium - if it is would this work in a very tightly stretched bundle?

[Chani]

I'm VERY new to this, so forgive me for asking, but where would you get a titanium or aluminum basket that would work for bulk anodizing small parts?

Another question that I have is, is there a way to NOT have any spots that are not anodized using this method? Such as, would it be possible to anodize, then loosen the basket cover, shake the parts, tighten it back up again, then anodize again?

A little explanation: I do chainmaille, and I'd like to be able to make and anodize my own aluminum rings. I'd like to anodize the rings AFTER they're cut so that there is NO bare aluminum showing instead of coiling the aluminum wire and cutting them after anodizing the coils.

The company I currently buy my rings from sends them out to an anodizing company, and the rings have NO spots on them. They're anodized after being cut from coils.

I'd like to know how to achieve the same results.

Thank you!!!

Chani