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| Anodizing Questions Discussion board for anodizing questions. |
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go to www.ps1anodizing.com to see some of my other work. I kinda got carried away on the little bike. now my 6 year old is mad cause I stole his bike......oh well
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was playing arround today with the vinyl cutter and thought i would try it.
note the preping on the part wasn't the best. and the time in the tank was extremly short. plus my agitaor pump broke half way in. so now i need to try and find a prop for it. ![]() oh yeah what a bitch to get the vinyl off afterwards. but do's leave nice sharp lines. |
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Pmonhollon thanks for the help. if you need any vinyl stickers made up just let me know.
![]() got most of my kinks worked out. bigest thing is making sure you press the whole sticker down with out missing anything is the key. |
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oh yeah back to the origanl question
removing the adhesive left behind. i found that steaming the parts after annoing and then hitting it with wd40 takes it off with a lite rubbing. then soap and water and it looks great. but i uasual let it sit with the wd40 on it over night before washing. |
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There is a post in this forum that answers your question as to repeated strippings of paintball markers. It can be found by using the search function under paintball guns or going to the following thread.
http://www.caswellplating.com/bbs/vi...paintball+guns Hope this helps! |
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Quote:
i would sugest making a bore plug. to seal the inner chamber. only needed for the air chamber in reality. i have to do this with one marker i deal with alot. due to the fact that there tolerences aren't great to start with. but with most markers i would say no more then twice. if it has been sealed. if there stripped before sealing it. it tends not to remove much meteral |
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Thanks for the link, Scocklin.
Whether a part is sealed or not makes no difference in the amount of base metal lost to anodization, be it hydrated aluminum oxide (boiling water or steam) or nickel acetate. No base metal is involved in forming the seal regardless of the method. |
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