sput welder

[Fibergeek]

Like I said; 12VDC at 300mA.

I don't like doing this, the plug that connects to the Type 6 is tricky, there is a different one that looks just like it but won't work.

You MUST use this plug:

Coaxial power, 2.1mm ID, 5.5mm OD, center positive. Anything else WON'T WORK.

It would be a good idea to wait until your Sputwelder arrives, and take the supplied 120VAC power cube to the electronics shop with you.

[kickn]

Sorry - My bad - you did say. Time for some more coffee

[kickn]

Okay - I had a 12v supplier here that worked a treat so I'm up and running.

A couple questions thought if you please about best practice. I have read the manual and have been practicing a bit. I seem to be getting a good sound and what seems like a good weld but the wire comes off pretty easy. I'm using the 16 guage wire that came with it with a medium bit of scrap ali. I sanded the ali, sanded the wire, connected the red to the wire (approx 4in from base) grabed the base - charged - wham! Everything seems to work - there is a small black ring around the wire connected to the part.

I have to bend the wire about 45 so the part hangs though and as soon as I do this (even doing it 1/2" from the base of the wire) it comes loose.

I'm also trying to spud weld some small wire (20guage or so) to some small M3 screws but it seems I can't get it low enough to take.

Am I doing anything abviously wrong or is this normal? Is it possible to weld at a 45 deg angle or is the area too great? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

[Fibergeek]

With the 16 AWG wire, you should have no trouble bending the wire a full 90 degrees, even at 1/4" from the weld. The weld is bad.

This can be caused by not enough weld energy (Joules) or not enough weld force.

When you attach the wire and work with the clips, wiggle the clips slightly to be sure you broke through any surface oxide, it doesn't take much connection resistance to sap weld energy.

What you describe is more likely not enough weld force, or you are letting the wire bounce out of the weld pool before it solidifies. Try holding the wire in your fingers, about 1/4" from the weld end, this can elliminate bounce, and it gives you better control of weld force. This method is described on page 6 of your manual.
Don't worry, you won't get shocked or burned.

Small gauge wire is harder to use because it bends so easily, don't try this until you can make consistantly good welds with the larger wire.

Yes you can weld at a 45 degree angle, use the "Precision Wire Placement" technique described in another thread here. Hold the wire guide tube at the angle you want. Again, you shouldn't need to do this if your welds are good.

[kickn]

I have gotten it now I think. I think it was the way I was welding it.

I'm still have a problem with really light wire and small light parts - any suggestions on that front? I can't seem to get the right joules. It either doesn't take at all - or there is a great sputter and nothing. I'll keep tring and I'm sure I'll get it but if there is anything else to try I would appreciate it.

Thanks for all your help fibre - you've been outstanding in you patients and help! If your ever in the UK I'll buy you a pint!

[Fibergeek]

Ok Kickn, I'll look you up when I'm in the UK again.

Fine gauge Al wire is challenging; practice, practice, practice. It took me some work to get it down. You might want to try attaching the clip to the wire something like 6" above the weld. This tends to spread out the weld pulse which helps with fine wire.
When the wire is aluminum and that small, the weld strength is greatly reduced, Al wire is quite weak in that diameter. Case in point: if you weld 24 AWG soft steel wire to steel, you can only break the weld with considerable effort using your hands. 20 AWG steel wire welds will easily support my weight (180 lbs.) I tried it. Steel is far stronger than aluminum, you need to consider the actual strength of a small cross section of aluminum.

[kickn]

Here's another question for you. I've got small disks (approx 21mm dia) that are 3mm thick. I need to attach a copper wire on to that. I had a play with the sput welder but that didn't quite work. Do you think copper clad aluminium wire would be better?

It needs to be something like copper as I need to solder it to a pcb.

Any ideas?

[Fibergeek]

Do you think copper clad aluminium wire would be better?

I don't know; I never tried it, you see that happens and tell us.

Like the manual says; you want to weld similar metals to similar metals, the idea is have the wire and the weld pool (the work) melt at about the same time. This obviously requires the wire and work to have similar melting points. As an example, copper and brass are similar enough.

There is an exception to this; it is possible to get a reasonable electrical connection and decent strength by mechanically trapping the wire (which didn't melt) in the weld pool of the work (which did). Titanium wire to aluminum and stainless steel wire to steel are examples of this. But be advised; connections like these are NOT WELDED, the connection is not good enough for anodizing, but it should be for electroplating and many general electrical connections.

[jamerson]

Hi my name is nick. I work for Clinton power. We build rectifiers and some power supplies. But any way my question is. Can anybody tell how to build a sput welder. I dont want to sell them i just want one fore my self.