Better color chart for Caswell dyes?

[luminous]

Originally Posted by Sid03

Reagents, Inc

Ahhh, thanks I just found their website: http://www.reagents.com/ and downloaded their catalog. It looks like there's quite a few flavors and strengths of Acetic Acid... can you give us a little more info about the one you use, or post the catalog number?

Thanks much!

[Sid03]

yeah, ill get that for ya ASAP.

[Ready2Dye]

Originally Posted by mcaswell

Most people seem to see the colors on our web page. Of course, this will vary tremendously depending on each customers monitor. Maybe you should try looking on some one elses? Older monitors don't fair too well with these slight variations in colors.

Originally Posted by luminous

Can you honestly tell me that folks can distinguish between brown GL and brown BL on your chart?
It seems pretty unlikely, since those 2 color swatches are IDENTICAL

LOL

It's true, the colors are THE EXACT SAME (on the web page)!

I checked the code and it reads...

for the BROWN BL:
<td>
<p><img src="images/brownbl_dye.gif" alt="Brown BL" (snip)></p>
<p>Brown BL</p></td>

AND for the BROWN GL:
<td>
<p><img src="images/brownbl_dye.gif" alt="Brown GL" (snip)></p>
<p>Brown GL</p></td>

SO... What is the difference?

... and in a slightly less flaming tone what does the BL and GL mean?

And what does grey bl and grey nln mean cuz I dyed something in grey bl and it looks blue not grey?

Thanks

[Ready2Dye]

Originally Posted by mcaswell

AND of course, colors will vary depending on the operator, and the skill of the anodizer.

I am in no way a skilled anodizer ( I am however, a wise-ass- regarding the above post I am just taken back by the fact you have the same color representing two different dyes- sorry for coming off as a smart-ass )...

BUT! Please explain what skill I lack that is prohibiting me from attaining a grey part - save CLEAR coating it -

I have used your grey bl and grey nln and can't get a "grey" finish.

In these examples the dyes I used were diluted by half and only dipped for 5 minutes TOPS!

PLEASE DON'T tell me either of those factors had any part in making the grey bl turn blue and the grey nln turn black.

I used whatever blue, black, and GREY things I had on my desk for comparison.

Thank you and again I apologize for coming off as a wise-ass.
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It would be great if anyone can offer me any advice on this. (should I mix colors?)
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[acidrain]

I used both greys, and have had good luck. Yeah, the Gray BL is a very dark gray, and almost looks brown, and the Gray NLN is much lighter, and blueish in color, but you have to work with what you've got.
The Gray BL will come out much lighter if anodized for less time. Go for .5 to .75 mils and see the difference.
The gray BL looks almost gun-metal gray in high gloss, and the gray NLN looks more Pewter.
I agree, the on-line color chart is misleading at best, but learning what each color does at different ano thicknesses and finishes is something we all have to work through.
Deep red looks pink compared to a fire truck... I just use Bordeaux red for everything (varying the depth of color with dye time and ano thickness).
Same with orange... it looks (compared side-by-side) exactly like gold.
I'ver added red to my orange to create what I consider orange, and to make a true gold, ano to only .5mil max.
Olive is so dark, I thought I made a mistake. I've custom mixed my own olive so that it looks like an olive now (toning it down with bronze).
The blues are not accurate either, but like I said, work with what you've got, learn what each looks like, and make the best of it.
Don't think you won't be doing this exact same thing with anybody elses dyes either.

[sswee]

Along with what acidrain said, have you tried black for very short times. There have been times and colors that only took 20 to 30 seconds for the desired effect. To match I have had to dip 30 seconds and then 15 seconds at a time rinsing to see in between dips to get the desired color.
SS

[M_D]

Both of the grey dyes mentionioned tend to have blueish hues, and the grey nln will dye to a blacker black than the "black" dyes.

The specs for grey nln calls for a ph of 5.5 if I remember correctly. At that ph it will dye extremely quickly, and have a blueish/lavender hue until it gets close to the color black.

To get rid of the blueish hue, raise the ph with ammonia to about 6.3 -7.2(this dye is EXTREMELY ph sensitive, colorwise, the further you raise the ph, the more the blueish hue goes away). If you raise it further, it may take on a brownish hue. As the ph is raised, the dye time will continue to increase, and once you go too high it will virtually cease to dye.

I really don't have the time to go deep into it now, but I will try to post some very interesting facts and useful proceedures involving dying and ph levels sometime in the next few weeks, when ever my time permits. This information will help alot in dying, stripping the color, and redying the same part(s) over and over while working with and adjusting dye colors. A good ph meter that accurately and consistently reads to .01 is invaluable, but they tend to run $200 and up.

[Ready2Dye]

Originally Posted by acidrain

I agree, the on-line color chart is misleading at best, but learning what each color does at different ano thicknesses and finishes is something we all have to work through...

...Don't think you won't be doing this exact same thing with anybody elses dyes either.

That is good advice. I just want it done right. NOW (sigh)

I will be trying the orange today that comes in the sampler. I am going to "go for gold" (ha ha) by giving it a .5 mil coat like you said. I'll take plenty of pics to show everyone how good or bad it comes out.

Originally Posted by sswee

Along with what acidrain said, have you tried black for very short times. There have been times and colors that only took 20 to 30 seconds for the desired effect.

I have not tried black but will after my orange/gold experiment. I still have on hand but have not tried: black, orange, yellow, violet, or green. I have been going for a color that still looked like metal. BUT- now I will be varying my times AND ano thickness.

M D-I have not altered the PH and have no way to gauge PH at this time. I will try to find a meter.

Originally Posted by M_D

I really don't have the time to go deep into it now, but I will try to post some very interesting facts and useful proceedures involving dying and ph levels sometime in the next few weeks, when ever my time permits. This information will help alot in dying, stripping the color, and redying the same part(s) over and over while working with and adjusting dye colors. A good ph meter that accurately and consistently reads to .01 is invaluable, but they tend to run $200 and up.

I am anxiously waiting.
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Thank you for the input guys.
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[acidrain]

You're going to LOVE violet!
An almost clear, cool-aid orange looking dye that makes the parts turn bright purple almost instantly.

[destroyer125]

it also is an odd color when dyed...then when you seal it, it turns a dark purple.