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i've been doing ano for a while now and i stopped for a while when all my acid went bad (aluminum sulphate)
anyway, i was wondering how to determine the purity or junk content of your acid, due to hazmat and cost and such i've only been able to use car battery acid, i've always drained it, filtered it, then heated it below the boiling point for H2SO4 and above the boiling point of water to get it as pure as i could, then mixed it 50:50 with distilled water i recently did the same without boiling the acid because i figured i'd end up watering it down anyway, and ahven't used it yet, although the acid is a tint of blue in a large amount (quart jar) all my acid before was clear as water, the new filter i used had some bit of charcoal in it, which i rmeoved the majority of because it started getting hot when i filtered it. i was wondering if that chemical reaction could have ruined the acid in someway (active carbon + H2SO4) and if thats why it has taken a blue tint, or if it matters at all. i'm getting ready to do some semi-commercial ano work and figured once that got started i would order acid regeants but until then i have plenty of batteries. couldn't find any faqs on this, any help or comments are appreciated. in addition i was wondering about the process to do splashes or sponge ano, all i've done thus far is single color, gloss, and matte, as well as 2 color fade |
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yea i'm in the states, i didn't know napa sold acid refills, as far as i knew the only way to get it was bulk from chem sompanys, i was looking at chemex or somthing like that...
thanks, and yea i've been useing used acid, what will the differenc ebe in the results after changeing over to new acid? |
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You need to to read the LCD Anodizing instructions.
These instructions relate to using NAPA battery acid. You don't need to figure anything out, just follow the mixing ratios. KISS (Keep It Safely Simple)
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