Smokin' chickens, chew'n gum & inverse video

[archimedes]

Greetings All,
I am brand new to your anodizing experience, but you have me 100% hooked!
And thus--- the reason for that funky thread title:
I have built a 3gal system (in a little over 24 hours) once I received
the Caswell's black die and sealer products and my first 6061 and 2024 motorcycle parts off of my CNC lathe were done with the black. It took only
2 practice parts (I have polished AL many times before-- so I knew the proper prep spec) and the rest were very nice indeed.
So I read Ron Newman's gibberish and followed it (only because I bought it!)
and now I know there is better.
Years of my own development to create an excellent salt brine for my smoked chickens gave me the intuition that this Battery mixture could be better developed. Chewing gum --- you now how we like to chew gum and how
it should stay soft because our teeth are smakin' down hard on it, yet after only a little bit the darn stuff gets hard . . . . . . ok --- well that taught me the reason for our Mr. Aluminum's dissolution, creation of a permeable skin layer (known in the Caswell world as PAR). And finally I have made intelligent
programming decisions for the usefullness of an inverse video block to guide
data keypunch applications for improved accuracy and ergonomics--- so
our Electical Rubic wasn't so confusing after all. PAR is the inverse logic
of my battery charger's power addendum!

Ok-- seriously, If U have stayed this long thanks!
I would like to develop an excellent results oriented 3 gl anodizing system.
I will buy the Caswell CV, CC PS but which one is appropriate for my system size? That 20amp is very nice but . . . . The lowest priced one isn't tunable
So--- is the 5amp appropriate?
I have ordered 2 of 8"x8" GP Plates (lead sheets) for my cathodes. BTW-- anybody wants to see HOW big a set of cathodes can be let me know.
I need air! I have purchased an aquarium air pump for this reason. But
if I had intelligent opinions available--- what would anyone like to see designed?
I have my dye tank nicely done now. The heat is registered fairly well from
130 to 140. What about agitation in a dye tank?
I am waiting on a heater core from Caswell for my sealant tank.
My rack is a 5/8" round Titanium bar and my wire hangers are 10 gage solid AL. I use my own "J" bends and use 1 set (series of 2) -- with a "J" or "U"
bend from opposite openings in my parts. Secured tight to the Ti bar.

OK--- have I missed anything?
I hope I have entertained a little and hopefully made a decent presentation to
encourage your contribution.
This is an excellent forum with some very knowledgeable contributors (I read
a lot!--- and looked at a ton of pics!).
thanks for your consideration and help,
scott

[mcaswell]

A pleasure to have you aboard Sir!

I see Mr. Newman's system didn't meet your needs!

The 3 amp cc power supply is controllable from 0-3 amps

see the video www.moonrakers.com/weblcd.mov

I'll let the other guys answer all the other stuff!

[sswee]

I will buy the Caswell CV, CC PS but which one is appropriate for my system size? That 20amp is very nice but . . . . The lowest priced one isn't tunable
So--- is the 5amp appropriate?

The size of the PS depends on the largest SA of the parts you want to do. Some other things to consider are 3 gallons of electrolyte will only dissipate so much generated heat with aeration and ambient cooling and if you will upgrade to a larger setup later. The 3A or 5A PS are both suitable for a 3 gal. setup. I don't understand what you mean by the lowest priced one isn't tunable. I have the 3A and 20A PS and they both work the same.

I need air! I have purchased an aquarium air pump for this reason. But
if I had intelligent opinions available--- what would anyone like to see designed?

The aquarium air pumps work ok for that size setup if you have one rated for enough volume. The ingenuity will come in to play with figuring out how to disperse the aeration in the tank. I used 1/2" CPVC pushed together to form a square in the bottom of my 3-1/2 gal tank and 1/8" holes drilled in it for larger air bubbles. I weighted it down with sheet lead.
I have pics of the different size tanks in my album here.

I have my dye tank nicely done now. The heat is registered fairly well from
130 to 140. What about agitation in a dye tank?

I tried agitation in the dye tanks and did not see any benefit.

My rack is a 5/8" round Titanium bar and my wire hangers are 10 gage solid AL. I use my own "J" bends and use 1 set (series of 2) -- with a "J" or "U"
bend from opposite openings in my parts. Secured tight to the Ti bar.

I have used that method before. It works ok as long as the hanger are kept clean and have enough tension. The connection to part is the more critical to have tight due to the submersion.

SS

[archimedes]

Greetings,
Thanks Mike, for your hospitality and thanks SS, for your consideration and help.

SS's contributions are in "blue"

The 3A or 5A PS are both suitable for a 3 gal.

Ok good. I was thinking the 5a PS was a good start for this system.

I don't understand what you mean by the lowest priced one isn't tunable. I have the 3A and 20A PS and they both work the same.

I am going to review the Moonraker video again to better understand.

I have pics of the different size tanks in my album here.

Yes--- I saw this setup of yours. Good work and very nicely done. Very clean and precise.

I tried agitation in the dye tanks and did not see any benefit.

Understood. Doesn't mean something isn't there eventually, but my initial results confirmed the same thing.

It works ok as long as the hanger are kept clean and have enough tension.

I have to clarify this for everyone: I have a lifetime supply of wound 10g AL wire. I do not reuse my hangers! In fact, they are immediately thrown away after their usefulness is served in the anodizing tank.
For all processes after the anodizing I switch to AL 24g wire and do this with a very clean set of rubber gloves. And this wire is
thrown away after the final process.


The connection to part is the more critical to have tight due to the submersion.

Reading through this forum's contributions demonstrated to me that 80% of most poor results stemmed from the methodology and attention to details when the hanger is connected to its final support. The 80% is not method proof by any stretch, but its probably not a bad bet.

Well, thanks again SS for your thoughts and assistance.
I have some more research to do.
Oh --- this system is sized accordingly for the parts I make for my own motorcycle. I do not anticipate any more than 12 sq. in. of SA in the tank at
once. I am fortunate to be able to design with a 3d solid modeler and it provides me with the SA for the finished model. So I have an easy means to
determine my power loads and temperature constraints before I start.
Maybe, if I can achieve the consistent results I see SS and others attain with
their efforts then I might do some bigger stuff for myself. For now its design, machine, polish, clean, dunk, clean, dunk, clean, dunk, cure and install on a bike.

scott

[sswee]

You sound detail oriented enough that you shouldn't have any problems. Any more questions, just ask.
SS