Rectitier

[-AAPB-Eric]

Hello!

I recently purchased a basic LCD anodizing kit and a rapid rectifier 25amps, 24volts DC output. 115 VAC input air cooled unit. Now, this does not have continuously cariable output control. I am running a 100L tank (approx 26 gal) and about 1-2 SF surface area. Will I have any problems with this unit and the LCD system?

[sswee]

Welcome,

If you are meaning that the rectifier is not CC (constant current) capable then yes it will make things difficult. You will need to rig something to control the current or sit and adjust the voltage to maintain the desired current throughout the run.
SS

[-AAPB-Eric]

from my understanding its not CC. but does have a voltage controller knob. Im doing a run as we speak so ill find out soon enough how it came out.

thanks.

[sswee]

Keep us posted.
SS

[-AAPB-Eric]

well, today was a cold day here in Toronto. (the leafs lost and we are having some cold air from the artic visiting us!)

I could not get my tanks to the proper temp. was at max 50F. The current wouldnt flow. We believe it was the cold temperature that caused our amps to read near zero while our volts were up there. (Initially I thought it was the 3:1 ratio of water to battery acid)

Looks like I wont have any issues regarding cooling my tanks

[sswee]

I only have a problem with too cold a tank for a few days out of the year. A couple of cheap glass aquarium heaters should do the job. Although the colder temp will cause the voltage to be higher than normal, the current should flow. If it was not getting enough current at the max voltage, you need to double check your connections. You are just having the usual start up problems but will still have to do something on controlling the current.
SS

[-AAPB-Eric]

ill probably return that unit and get a CC unit.

Hmmm, not cold related?!? can it be the acid concentration is too low? I did the 3:1 ratio water to acid. Im using copper wire as my connections and am using 4 6000 series AL cathodes instead of the lead ones that came with the kit. Ill try to get some insulated copper wire as it is exposed. and ill solder the connections as well.

I have a Stainless Steel rack but after trying to plate 4 items, took out the other 3 and only tried to plate one. I initially used 20gauge AL wire and tried to connect with aligator clips directly to the wire holding the part. Then switched to Ti wire and tried it again but the amps would not rise much at all.

[sswee]

ill probably return that unit and get a CC unit.
That's the best way to go.

Hmmm, not cold related?!? can it be the acid concentration is too low? I did the 3:1 ratio water to acid. Im using copper wire as my connections and am using 4 6000 series AL cathodes instead of the lead ones that came with the kit. Ill try to get some insulated copper wire as it is exposed. and ill solder the connections as well.
Acid ratio won't be the cause if you mixed it right with distilled or RO water. For my curiosity, why did you switch to alum. cathodes? You say the copper wire connected to your cathodes is exposed. Are they connected to the cathodes out of the electrolyte? I use 10g automotive multistrand crimped, soldered and shrink tubed. Connections to cathodes and tank bar are bolted with SS bolts.

I have a Stainless Steel rack but after trying to plate 4 items, took out the other 3 and only tried to plate one. I initially used 20gauge AL wire and tried to connect with aligator clips directly to the wire holding the part. Then switched to Ti wire and tried it again but the amps would not rise much at all.
You will need to watch the size of the wire connected to the parts depending on the size of the part. I use from 20g to 8g wire depending on the SA of the part. If the wire is too small , the part won't get enough current and the wire will get warm.
SS

[-AAPB-Eric]

Originally Posted by sswee

ill probably return that unit and get a CC unit.
That's the best way to go.

Hmmm, not cold related?!? can it be the acid concentration is too low? I did the 3:1 ratio water to acid. Im using copper wire as my connections and am using 4 6000 series AL cathodes instead of the lead ones that came with the kit. Ill try to get some insulated copper wire as it is exposed. and ill solder the connections as well.
Acid ratio won't be the cause if you mixed it right with distilled or RO water. For my curiosity, why did you switch to alum. cathodes? You say the copper wire connected to your cathodes is exposed. Are they connected to the cathodes out of the electrolyte? I use 10g automotive multistrand crimped, soldered and shrink tubed. Connections to cathodes and tank bar are bolted with SS bolts.

I have a Stainless Steel rack but after trying to plate 4 items, took out the other 3 and only tried to plate one. I initially used 20gauge AL wire and tried to connect with aligator clips directly to the wire holding the part. Then switched to Ti wire and tried it again but the amps would not rise much at all.
You will need to watch the size of the wire connected to the parts depending on the size of the part. I use from 20g to 8g wire depending on the SA of the part. If the wire is too small , the part won't get enough current and the wire will get warm.
SS

1) yes, I did switch to Aluminum cathodes. The connections are above the aqueous layer.

2) I have soldering experience, and will try it out and cross my fingers. The parts are not too large that Im anodizing. Paintball marker parts like body, trigger frame, barrel etc. Yesterday our SA was 1.5 SF.

Ill try again with a new rectifier that is meant for the LCD kit and give her another go and also make a smaller anodizing tank with the 5gal bucket and cathodes given by caswell and see from there whats the score. Im sure my problem is something small. All my bolts are SS along with my rack (tested with multimeter for conductive properties)

[sswee]

No doubt it's something minor. The alum. cathodes will work, I was just curious about why you went that way.
SS