Help!!!

[Canute7]

Hey everyone,
I tried that piece of sq tubing, it did not take, I think it was to cold. My buddie's barn is not heated, and it still has not warmed up here yet.
I also have ordered some better dye, can't wait for it to get here!!
I have a couple questions:
1. the manual says that the acid solution is 3 parts water and 1 part acid, is my math off or is this a 25% acid solution?
2. what is the resistor in the electric system for? is this necessary for the system to work?
thanks
Canute

[sswee]

What is the temp?

The 3:1 acid concentration is approx. 5% acid (4.8% to be more precise). If your using battery acid, the sulfuric acid concentration is not 100%, Commercial battery acid is 35% by weight, and 19.2% by volume.

The resistor is used to be able to check current with a DMM set to amps. It is not necessary to run but to know how much amperage your using if your not using a CC/CV PS.

[Canute7]

Thanks for the quick response and info,
What is DMM?
Also my dye is due here on Monday, can't wait to "play" with it.
The temp that day was around 50 F, I have gone back and tested my part and it seems that I put a very thin clearcote on this test piece, won't conduct electricity.
Also can/will you give me any info on "fade" finnish, as I don't see much on this.
Thanks again
Canute

[sswee]

DMM is digital multimeter. I bought a couple of the cheap ones for my setup. Ran about ten dollars a piece.

You need to get all the basics covered so you don't get disappointed with the dye results. Did you get your acid concentration right? Do you know the SA of the part, so you know how much current to use?

Your only 10* too cold. Did you try rubbing the tank really fast to warm it up. LOL

acidrain can tell you to best way but one way is to hang the part in an empty bucket and siphon the dye into the bucket with the part. You can vary the flow rate for different looks.

SS

[Canute7]

Hey everyone,
SS, I am making upgrades to my system while waiting on the dye to arrive, I now have the dimmer switch and some 12 v lights to add to my set up.
In response to your questions:
1. my solution is now 3 parts distilled water and 1 part acid (part=gal)
2. SA of my part is 23.538, according to the 720 rule to get .7 mills, I need 6 amp CD, current set at .98 for 84 mins, with a peak voltage of 15 v

This brings me to a couple of questions:
1.can you explain how to "set" the current, I read about this but I'm not quite sure if I am understanding.
2. The 720 rule says peak voltage is 15 v, I have a 12 v charger, as usual I'm a little short( I'm 5'7" tall) is this a problem?

Also checked with my "tech" and he informs me that rubbing the tub is not an option, this next week temps should be coming up to about 70F, so that should help.

I would like to thank you for shareing the "fade" info with me, and also would like to thank everyone here for your help, I may have gotten there on my own, but it would have taken a lot longer!
Thanks
Canute

[sswee]

SA of my part is 23.538, according to the 720 rule to get .7 mills, I need 6 amp CD, current set at .98 for 84 mins, with a peak voltage of 15 v

This brings me to a couple of questions:
1.can you explain how to "set" the current, I read about this but I'm not quite sure if I am understanding.
2. The 720 rule says peak voltage is 15 v, I have a 12 v charger, as usual I'm a little short( I'm 5'7" tall) is this a problem?

These numbers are on, are you using the 720 calculator? A couple of points for you on these calculations. The CD can be changed from 3 to 6 ASF to allow for different short comings in a system. Don't go below 3 ASF because the coating grown will be too soft and pore size too large to give good results. If you only have 12V capability, drop to a 4.5 CD for a projected peak voltage of 11.25V. It will drop you amp setting to .74A and raise the run time to 112 minutes for the same thickness coating. The peak voltage is only a calculation. It is usually close but due to all the parameters that will effect it (tank temp, connections), it will not always be right on.

Using the light bulbs, you have to measure the resistance of the bulbs and using Ohm's law calculate the amperage they will allow at the voltage they run at. Run the needed amount of bulbs in parallel to add up to the amperage you want. You can see a light board I made for mine in my picture album on the 3 gal setup.

Using the dimmer setup, you adjust the dimmer to vary the voltage to achieve the amperage you want.

With these methods accuracy is difficult and tweaking of the voltage is needed during the run.
SS

[Canute7]

SS,
So I use the lights OR the dimmer, not AND the dimmer, right?
Also, as I do not have a inline ammeter I will have to chack amps through out the run with my tester, is this also correct?
I am just trying to make sure that I get it right, so bear with me.
Thanks
Canute

[sswee]

You can use one or the other. I used the light bulbs and it was a royal pain. Acidrain uses or did use the dimmer with a charger. It seems to me the dimmer would work better. Easier to make adjustments during the run.

To know what is going on you will need to be able to check voltage and amperage during the run. That's where the resistor comes in, to be able to check the amperage with a DMM.

SS

[Canute7]

O. K. Thanks, I've had some electric classes, but it's been a while, but now I see where you are going.
later I should be able to add an inline ammeter, that should make it easyer to see what happening
Thanks again,
Canute

[sswee]

Better than an in-line ammeter would be to upgrade to a CC/CV PS. Don't mean to harp on it but first time you use one you'll see what I'm talking about. Your first good piece coming out will make all the trouble worth it.
SS