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I didn't realize the brake cleaner was perc. I have used brake cleaner... it works really good. The only thing is it's pretty expensive, and not re-usable since it comes as an aerosol.
Other solvents I've tried on buffing compound: Paint thinner... didn't work that good, and left an oily film. Acetone... worked pretty good, except it evaporates so fast, it leaves the compound behind before it can be wiped clean. Simple Green... dulled the parts. Automatic dishwashing soap... REALLY dulled the parts. Mild soap and hot water... doesn't remove the compound at all. Best thing I've found so far is the lacquer thinner. Downside is it needs to be taken to a Haz Waste recycler for disposal, and it's kind of expensive. Like I said, I'm going to try the LPS precision clean. It is concentrated, and needs to be mixed 4:1 with water. We'll see.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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Boiling hot water and a dash of Caswell degreaser? My degreaser tank has been leaking for a few weeks out of a tiny crack in the bottom, we just kept adding more water thinking the rolling boil had much to do with that. The parts were getting very clean quickly. I wouldnt know the concentration
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From what I understand, the SP Degreaser is pretty much the same thing as the etch - caustic soda. The major difference being the concentration and probably some "wetting" agents. Caustic soda, also known as Lye was (and probably still is) used in making soap. It only makes sense that if given enough time the SP Cleaner would dull the service finish just as an etch would. Keep in mind of course, that an increase in temperature would ultimately cause the caustic soda to work more aggressively. Some anodizing shops don't even use a rinse between their degreasing and etching stations. I, however, would recommend it.
Just my dime. - Dan
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my main consideration would be if there is that much compound left on a part try using less compound on the wheel, and should clean up faster. i always used electrocleaning when i was plating. basically just used a stainless steel pot with degreaser--pot=anode, hooked part up just like plating and if steel used 2-3 volts,brass 1-2 volts all depending on size of part. cleaned around 1-2.5 minutes,take right out,rinse--regular tap water,acid dip maybe 15-30 seconds, rinse is distilled water, check for water break, usually never failed----proceed to plate.
bill
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Bill, you realize this thread is over one year old, right?
It looks like your method is aimed at electroplating... You didn't say what degreaser you used... SP degreaser? You didn't say that you've used this method for aluminum... did you? At what voltage was it used on aluminum? Did it dull the part (high gloss). I never did use perc, but I did find a local plating supplier that gave me a sample of thier degreaser... guaranteed not to dull the parts, and they are not lying. The problem is, this is a commercial supplier, and the smallest they sell is 400 lb lots. I'm getting close to needing a re-supply of the stuff, and I'll find out more info... maybe Caswell could start carrying it instead of the current degreaser.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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