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I've had the same problems... thats why all the effort with the lacquer thinner, etc.
My method (with gloved hands): Remove compound with lacquer thinner. Wash with mild soap and hot water. Rack the parts. SP degreaser at 140 for just a minute or two to pass water break test. SP degreaser will last a REALLY long time with this method, but lacquer thinner is $10 per gallon.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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You must be careful not to leave the parts in too long in the rolling boil degreaser. Once you start to see the parts fizz, give it another 20 seconds and check the condition of the finish. You dont need longer than this it passes water break test then.
Ive never used Tripoli compound. Sounds like acid rains suggestions will be very helpful and a toothbrush will help as well scrubbing off the tripoli. |
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I found the Simple Green will also dull the polished finish.... I think it was heated though. I have been searching for the LPS product "Precision clean" that was mentioned in another post. It is a water soluble replacement for trichlorethelene.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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yes I heat my simple green to ~100.....and it works fine with a good soak..it will dull the finish slightly but a quick buff will fix it....caswells degreaser took about 20 seconds and I had to rebuff the entire piece
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Not sure... do you work in the dry-cleaning industry? A quick search shows an alarming heath risk to fumes and contact with the skin, but that is for workers exposed every day.
Tell us about perc (if you know).
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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