couple of dumb newbie questions

[Chunkstyle]

hi guys --

i was wondering if anyone could please answer a couple of questions. i've done some research & read caswell's lcd anodizing manual, but am still somewhat in the dark. i'd appreciate any info you could offer.

1. i'm gathering that lcd anodizing is not the same thing as the "slap it in the acid with a battery charger attached" method i've seen on a lot of other sites.
does caswell have a manual or hints that deal with anodizing using an automatic battery charger? i'm asking because this one item i'm hoping to anodize red will possibly be the only thing i ever anodize, and i can't justify spending a lot on it.

2. is the above method workable, or is it a disaster waiting to happen? any tips? i'm pretty much clear on understanding the need for complete cleanliness, degreasing, really good electrical contact at the anode, dyeing, sealing etc. the shape of these parts (bmx bicycle brake arms) is highly irregular, and it'll be tough to come up with a surface area figure that's even close. i'd break the part up into theoretical chunks, calculate each part & add them together, but even that'd leave a lot of room for slop, due to complex curves, etc.

3. if the battery charger thing isn't a good idea, is there some easy & cheap way to come up with a constant current power supply that'd work? i remember seeing some guy having posted about using the power supply out of a printer, but as far as i know, he didn't say what kind or how he had to modify it.


thank you!

[Batman]

1) It is possible to use a battery charger but the anodized layer will not be of very high quality. So the anwser to your question is yes, but if you are only going to anodize one part the trouble is far greater than it is worth.
2)Estamate the area by looking at the lever like parts of a retangle or a cube and just watch your amps going to the part.

[acidrain]

You could control your current manually with a ceiling fan controller wired in-line on the hot side of the 110v input. You'll need an accurate method of measuring the amps to the parts, and then hand control the current throughout the entire run.
An automatic charger doesn't work for this. Instead, go for the cheaper manual model.
Just so you know, red is one of the harder colors to master. Anodize too long and it will turn out chalky. Anodize too short, the red will be pink.
Different alloys anodize at different rates. 6xxx and 5xxx go for a full 1mil according to the 720 rule. 2xxx and 7xxx, go for .75mil.
Also, watch your acid concentration and temperature. 1:3 acid/water, @ 68-70F.
Use aggressive agitation too.

[sswee]

For a one time deal it is going to cost more than sending them to an anodizing shop. Another thing to consider is the material, most levers I've seen have been cast aluminum which can be difficult to do if they can be done at all.
SS