Hobby-charger, swallow ac/dc2 ?

[dewil]

I have one of these and wonder if I could use it to anodize?

It can charge ni-mh /ni-cd batteries with "zero delta" peak detection or constant current/constant voltage for li-ion and Pb batteries.

What damage could happend if I try to use it and wich chare method would be the best?

Here is a link:

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67403

thanks!

[sswee]

It doesn't put out enough amperage. Amperage does the work. What are youy looking to anodize?

[dewil]

Not enough? it puts out up to 5A. That should be enough for a cd of almost the recomended 6A/ squarefeet. Or have I got it wrong?

Im going to anodize mostly smaller parts for my bike

[sswee]

I didn't see 5A on the link. I only saw .1 to 1.0A. If it will do 5A in CC, what voltage will it do? It may work. You can adjust the amperage in what increments?

Have you roughly calculated the surface area of any of the parts you want to do? Are the parts cast or billet?
SS

[dewil]

"* Ni-Cd/hydrogen : 1.2V~16.8V (1~14CELL)
* lithium-polymer/lithium-ion : 3.7V~18.5V (1~5CELL)
* Lead cell : 2.0V~12.0 (1~6CELL)
* Charge current 0.1A - 5A ( selecting 100mA steps charge current) "

The votage probobly depends on wich type of cells im charging. But it seems to reach highest voltage when charging li-po cells.

The things I will anodize are mostly smaller billet parts, but some cast parts may occur. In the long run I will definetly get a real CC powersource with more amps but they cost about $ 300 in sweden so Im looking for cheaper alternatives.
These on the pic will be done but in a more orange colour like the one with the KTM logo.(I havent anodized these, they were made by a pro)

[sswee]

At that price for a CC power, it's worth a try. It appears that it will work. I'd start out with a 4.5 ASF CD. It will give you an approximate 11.25V needed for anodizing. If you need info on any of the calculations or how to, let me know.
SS

[dewil]

Really epreciate your help!
I will try this next weekend if I have gotten my dyes by then.

Another question just to make sure I understand, when PAR is reached, the voltage should drop, right? If I try to anodize with the charger set on ni-mh or ni-cd mode it will peak-detekt. So in theory the charger will turn the current of when PAR is reached. (If this works why havent anyone thought of this sooner? Must be a catch somewhere).

Which charging method would you suggest me to chose? ni-mh/ni-cd, li-po or Pb?

Thanks!

[sswee]

Use the 720 rule. If you go by PAR to end a run you will usually under anodize the part and not get a good dye. The run time is determined by the CD used for the run. A 1 mil coating takes 160 minutes at a 4.5 ASF CD. This is effected some by the material grade.
SS

[Tim Wiltse]

Guys I would question using that type of charger. It has Input/output opposite connecting protection fuction for one. I don't know how it will "see" anodizing. I know not to use a automatic battery charger because once it sees any drop it will cut off I would think also with this charger it would do the same. I think it's onboard computer is going to outsmart you while trying to anodize with it.
I just ran a bunch of classic BMX bike parts for a fellow and the color gold you want is the Golden Orange.

Later,
Tim

[sswee]

Tim,
Not knowing all the functions of that charger or it's operation, you're right, that could be a possibility.
SS