what went wrong?

[dewil]

Dewil,

No the part will only draw the amps it needs! If your charger puts out a max of lets say 6 amps the part may only draw 2 or 3 amps as it anodizes. If will not go and draw the full 6 amps the charger can do. This is more or less the old method of anodizing before Caswell starting only doing tech support on the LCD method.
Yup temps are very importand. If your anodizing tank is 10 degrees colder than what it should be you will see a very large drop in the amount of amps it draws. The lower the amps the longer it will take to anodize to the same given layer thickness.

LAter,
Tim

Hi Tim! Why does everyone talk about using controled power and constant current if it isnt needed for good results?
Im not questioning your knowledge it´s just that there is so many bids!

[acidrain]

Tim is descibing the "let-er-fly" method. Caswell does not subscribe to that method, and neither do I.
Only with carfully controlled perameters can you expect repeatable results.
All of your tank temperatures are critical, especially the ano tank... just a couple of degrees one way or the other drastically changes the resistance. I suggest 68-70F.

[dewil]

Tim is descibing the "let-er-fly" method. Caswell does not subscribe to that method, and neither do I.
Only with carfully controlled perameters can you expect repeatable results.
All of your tank temperatures are critical, especially the ano tank... just a couple of degrees one way or the other drastically changes the resistance. I suggest 68-70F.

I have ordered a CC powersource now so I can have full control of the power. I had no idea that the bath-temp was so critical, it must have been way off since my line is in a pretty cold garage! Ill see if I can find some descent heaters!
Thanks

[sswee]

I run my tank at 60*F. The voltage demand is only slightly higher. Approximately 2V. Aquarium heaters work ok. The glass tube type.
SS

[dewil]

I run my tank at 60*F. The voltage demand is only slightly higher. Approximately 2V. Aquarium heaters work ok. The glass tube type.
SS

thanks! Will look into it today when im getting food for my dog!

[dewil]

Thanks for all the tips you gave! It paid off!
I have invested in titanium wire and it saves me lots of time. I also have invested in a good thermometer so I acurately can read the temp in botch C and F.

I ran the stuff in room-temp and then in 140f dye and it was a night and day difference!
Another question: Why is there more or less activity at the anode from time to time? I ran the same cd and with one batch it bubbeled very visibly and with the other so little you hardly could see?

Today I should get my CC powersource and cant wait to try it out next weekend!
Here are some pics from the run this weekend, ised melting glue to mask some brass-bushings. Not the best since it melted when I sealed it afterwards... But you learn from your misstakes!

[sswee]

Looking good. The CC PS is going to make everything easier and give a better more consistant coating. Glad to see it coming together for you.
SS

[acidrain]

Great job!
Don't get too caught up in why there are more bubbles sometimes... it's not a good indicator of consistancy.

[dewil]

Thanks guys! I will add a gallery when I hav some things to show for!
Ill get back to you if I run in to more speedbumps!

[rclint]

A good example here of these guys knowing what it takes

If you want to play, you gotta pay LOL

It's not much more cost for a regulated power supply, and you can monitor so many things, trouble shoot, and know when it's right. Also as Acidrain says the hang wires are always a good way to trouble shoot, however 2 things I see can cause this to give you a bit of a stray reading. 1 being the part being anodized if it is cast or not so good grade of aluminum, and 2 if you calculated the surface area wrong, still with the wires you can look and narrow down a lot of things

I have learned a lot here, lots of good folks

Clint