newbi with ambition

[Hard_Color]

ok guys, glad to of found this forum btw.

I wanted to set up a battery charger anodizing process in my shop to do cast motorcycle clutch and brake levers. Then a Engineer friend told me if i set up a better/bigger process they will send work my way from his company.

So i want to go with a LCD setup. Seems like the best way and easiest also. What I am wondering is what powersupply i should use. I found Mastech 10a and 20a ones on ebay that are cv and cc. Would they work? Guess i dont know if i set the cc at 5amp ft^2 will the voltage just automatically do what it needs with this ps? I plan on between 3-6amp ft^2 for most batches.

Some of the contracts he could give me could be for a few thousand parts that must be done within a few week timeframe, would this be a big enough powersupply? (most parts are about the size of pack of cigarettes, and of freshly machined aluminum, not cast)

so far i know how the connections work, the 720 rule, a 3:1 solution, and thats about all i need to know to start testing right?

i have read that the cast levers are goin to give me fits, what do you think?

Thanks for your help, and the great forum, i have been up all night reading it!!

[acidrain]

Welcome! Wow, good questions... I'll try to answer each one, and I'm sure others can chime in with thier comments too.
First of all, cast parts do not ano well. Others here have more experience than I, but mainly, the smut (because of the alloy) is a problem, and often makes the part turn out blotchy or dark.
Battery chargers don't work well because they are somewhat low in voltage, and some way of adjusting the current is needed, which is a project in it's own. The mastech units you are looking at is what I use, and work fine. I've had one go out on me, but it was covered under warranty.
Yes, you turn the volts up all the way, and slowly ramp up the amps to your target, and it will hold the amps and the volts will just do what they need as the resistance changes during the run.
As for your current density, don't go below 4.5 amps per sq. ft. I use 6 A/sq. ft., which works well.
Doing freshly machined parts is a cake-walk. Just be sure to use anodizing specific chemicals... de-smut, degreaser, dyes amd sealer. If you know the alloy, even better (some alloys ano quicker than others).
Hope that helps.

[Hard_Color]

Thanks Acidrain! I figured as much with the volts. I am glad i found this site so i didnt waste my time on the battery charger method!

I am gonna order the 10amp one off ebay. Should i get the other supplies you mentioned from caswell or what brands does everyone else use?

When it comes to dyes, Is using a fabric dye such as Rit a normal thing for products that will be sold? Does it have long lasting quality (2-4 yrs no fade) for customer satisfaction?

Does everyone buy liquid dyes or powered form and add water? looking for most economical way of course.
Thanks!

[Hard_Color]

OK guys, this is what i decided to go with. It will only work for small batches, but i can practice for a few months before i decide to take on larger projects.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=140085205161
It is a Mastech HY1803D.

Now to get some sealer and dye and hopefully have some parts to show you guys in a few weeks. (i dont get home to my shop often because of school)

[acidrain]

That will work for up to about .5 sq. ft of surface area.
For sure get all your chemicals from caswell. Don't bother with the rit dye.. get real ano dye.
For new parts, all you will need is SP degreaser, dye, and high temp sealer.
If the parts are oxidized, or for stripping and re-anodizing older parts, you'll need stripper/etch, and desmut/de-ox.
Stripper/etch at room temperauture, desmut/de-ox at 120-140F, SP degreaser at 140F, ano tank at 68-70F, dye at 140F, and seal at over 180F.
GL, -Acidrain

[Hard_Color]

Originally Posted by acidrain

That will work for up to about .5 sq. ft of surface area.
For sure get all your chemicals from caswell. Don't bother with the rit dye.. get real ano dye.
For new parts, all you will need is SP degreaser, dye, and high temp sealer.
If the parts are oxidized, or for stripping and re-anodizing older parts, you'll need stripper/etch, and desmut/de-ox.
Stripper/etch at room temperauture, desmut/de-ox at 120-140F, SP degreaser at 140F, ano tank at 68-70F, dye at 140F, and seal at over 180F.
GL, -Acidrain

Wow, that is the most info in any one place i could of ever got! I will order up all that stuff then and hopefully next weekend make my first batches. I went and spent some cash at the hardware store today on a nice buffing wheel and a small air pump tomarrow I am building some benches in my new shop and gonna get everything sorted and ready for "go time".

Oh yeah, i know you can figure your solution based on a rough 1:3, but really wouldnt doing it by ph be a better way? just add water or acid to change it? If that is a good way, what ph should i shoot for?

[acidrain]

Even at 10:1, the PH will be way off the scale. We have talked about finding specific gravity, but I don't think anybody really figure out if that was acurate.
Just mix store-bought battery acid 1:3 with distilled water (1 part acid to 3 parts water). I marked my tank's level to visually see if any evaportaion has occured, and add water as needed.
Remember the three A's... Always Add Acid. Slowly add the acid to the water to avoid boiling up in your face.
Always wear safety glasses too. I have accidently dropped stuff in my tank... ker plunk. Acid -eaten clothes can be replaced... well you get the idea.
Glad to help.

[Hard_Color]

Originally Posted by acidrain

Even at 10:1, the PH will be way off the scale. We have talked about finding specific gravity, but I don't think anybody really figure out if that was acurate.
Just mix store-bought battery acid 1:3 with distilled water (1 part acid to 3 parts water). I marked my tank's level to visually see if any evaportaion has occured, and add water as needed.
Remember the three A's... Always Add Acid. Slowly add the acid to the water to avoid boiling up in your face.
Always wear safety glasses too. I have accidently dropped stuff in my tank... ker plunk. Acid -eaten clothes can be replaced... well you get the idea.
Glad to help.

Thanks Acid! looks like niether of us can sleep tonight... I ordered up everything from caswell tonight. Its not cheap to jump in all the way! I have like $400 into this in less then a week. I know thats not much, but it is just the research phase before the storm. I hope to have a 20-30amp Geocooled^ setup by the time school gets out so i can start making some cash with it.

I have been looking at cooling posts, My take on it is i think i will run a aluminum finned pipe though the tank,out of tank switch it to copper tubing and circulate right out the exterior wall, into the ground a bit, then come back in. that way all i need is a cheap pump while useing the ground for cooling, and keep the pump on a themastat. should be safe as the only thing being pumped will be water. for aggitation i am thinking of using filtered regulated air from my compressor. this is just ideas i have for building into my big tank, could and probabally will change.

What do you think of Geocooling^tm? I live in the country and have equipent to dig a deep hole in about 5 min so thats not an issue. Also since i havent finished the interior its just to drill a hole in the steel to get outside to dirt.

[acidrain]

Sounds like you've put a lot of thought into this... good work!
Yeah, the heat tranfer pipe thing will work for sure. My only concern would be the alloy of the pipe. I think it was 5051 that lasts the longest, but be aware, the aluminum is constantly being desolved into the acid. Thin-wall pipe will disappear after awhile, and if you spring a leak into your tank, it will be contaminated.
You might consider making a plate type heat exchanger made from 1/4in plate. It could be used as a cathode as well. Lead would be even better, and a titanium one would be the shiz.

[Hard_Color]

I have been putting some thought into this. Things like this really intrigue me. I am also working on a biodiesel setup in the same shop, but thats not for profit, just for home heating and transportation.

As for the type of tubing, it would be some .25" thick stuff of whatever OD and length i need, and i would weld .25" fins on it myself so no worrys of it disolving anytime soon. Using it as a cathode is a great idea also.

As for designing my next setup i am thinking like this for a line type process:
all matching tanks 4'W x 4'L x 2'd.

have tanks all in a row for each process, on stands. and build a hanging rack system that can be picked up by an overhead glide system to move it to next process. That way no touching of parts is done until they are taken off the cooled rack at the end. and as soon as the first ano was done and moved, a new rack could be loaded to have constant ano goin on. I think with a setup like that i could do enough production in a day with a 20amp setup to make it worth the effort.