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Thread: The water break test?

  1. #1
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    Default The water break test?

    What is everyone using to clean there parts with to get them to pass the water break test? I have done the degreasing step and the part still fails the test? In the LCD video i see him cleaning the part with something but he does not say what he is using. Any tips on this guys thanks.
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  2. #2
    acidrain's Avatar
    acidrain is offline Metal Finishing Guru
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Caswell's SP degreaser at 120F - 140F
    I do things.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    are you scrubbing it or just letting it sit?I did 15min at 140 and it still failed the test.
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  4. #4
    Ready2Dye is offline New User
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Just my 2 but... I use dish detergent with a scothbrite pad and cold tap water, I think in the dvd the dude put some clorox scrub cleanser or some shhhtuff like that....


    BUT you are, and this is just a stab in the dark, most likely doing paintball parts so neither the scotchbrite or clorox will do you any good unless you like the scratched as poop look.


    So..... maybe just try a sponge or SOFT CLEAN rag with some dish soap on it.

    When I think my part is clean I rinse it good in COLD tap then I turn the tap on LOW (still cold) and run the h20 over EVERY inch.

    THEN I wire'em up and it's off to Caswell's SP DEGREASER.

    HTH
    REDRIVER: You're still using the cool aid as a dye supplement aren't you? Avoid this...

    quadster: Kool-aid? Hummmmmmmm............ I havent even tryed Rit yet yet.....I could clean out a bunch of cabinet space....

    mcaswell: Cool Aid? RIT? ...Will someone pour me a large JD to steady my nerves?

  5. #5
    acidrain's Avatar
    acidrain is offline Metal Finishing Guru
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Are you having problems after buffing? The compoundicon can be very difficult to remove.
    My routine is this:
    After buffing, use a toothbrush and lacquer thinner to remove every trace of compoundicon (warm lacquer thinner works best). Sometimes I go to the kitchen sink afterwards and use dish soap and a toothbrush in very hot water just to be sure.
    Then wire up the parts, and just a quick soak (~1 min) in the SP degreaser before rinse/ano tank.
    I do things.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Thanks for the help I will try that today.Yes i have buffed everything first so i think its the buffing compoundicon.
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  7. #7
    destroyer125's Avatar
    destroyer125 is offline Experienced Metal Finisher
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    For some reason. Tooth brushes always tend to scratch up my polished finish. I use Straight battery acid at 60-80*F in a bucket. Soak the part for a few minutes, spray with water. Do this several times, Then wash it down very good with dish soap.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Acidrain are you not using the Caswell De-oxidizer? i was thinking he steps go
    1. striper
    2. Surface prep
    3. Water break test
    4.de greaser
    5. De-oxidizer
    6 anodizingicon
    7 dyeicon
    8 seal

    Thanks for the tip 125 i will have to try some battery acid
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    I used a sponge with some Dawn on it today and i got everything to pass the test after a little scrubbing. I also picked up some acetone just in case.
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  10. #10
    Ready2Dye is offline New User
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    Default Re: The water break test?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ready2Dye
    maybe just try a sponge or SOFT CLEAN rag with some dish soap on it.

    He shoots... HE SCORES!!!!
    REDRIVER: You're still using the cool aid as a dye supplement aren't you? Avoid this...

    quadster: Kool-aid? Hummmmmmmm............ I havent even tryed Rit yet yet.....I could clean out a bunch of cabinet space....

    mcaswell: Cool Aid? RIT? ...Will someone pour me a large JD to steady my nerves?

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