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I find that de-geasing the part to get any surface contaninants off first adds to the ability of the stripper to get in all the cracks and crevices... that way the part doesn't have to stay in the stripper too long.
Here is how I do it: Clean the parts thoroughly in lacquer thinner and a toothbrush. Follow up with hot soap and water if necessary. Strip the parts at 70F... dip for a minute or so, and scrub with a toothbrush. Repeat until stripped, then rinse in clean water. Immediately go to the de-smut at 120F - 140F, then rinse in clean water. I have found that if you strip the parts, and just toss them in a rinse tank, the stripper will continue to work and cause pitting. Going to the de-smut tank after stripping (whether there is smut or not) will neutralize the stripper.
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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Thanks for the help as always acidrain, so give the part a good cleaning first and go to the de-smutt right after i wash the stripper off........
The parts that pitted i stripped them and washed them off in a bucket of soapy water and let them sit in the bucket overnight.
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Outlawpb.com |
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Thanks for the easter wishes! Back at ya too.
You can try heating the stripper just a bit for faster action, but watch out... It will strip and eat aluminum really quickly if you're not right on top of it. Maybe try 80F. I've accidently overheated the stripper, and used it at about 100F. Stripped REALLY fast, but probably took some aluminum off too (judging from the amount of fizzing action).
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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I go against acidrains suggestions and heat my stripper to abouut 100-110. I only strip one part at a time, and I am basically holding my hand (Gloved of course) and scrub it every 10 seconds or so. I have noticed area's that have been laser engraved or has had an oring pressed against an area during normal use will pit in that area.
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