please explain.

[starns]

can someone please give a detailed explanation or walk through of the "gloss" finish or how they do it i am having trouble with this. my color matches are coming out great as well as my masking and coverage of dyes, cant seem to achieve a true gloss finish tho.

also what about an Acid wash?

[acidrain]

Buffing to a gloss before ano is one thing, but keeping the gloss before going in the ano tank (or during ano) is another. All of the chemicals (de-smut, SP degreaser, suphuric acid) will dull the gloss, so special care must be given.
Also, make sure the parts are all stripped/etched, then de-smutted before buffing. Here is what I do:
If the parts are heavily pitted or beadblasted, you'll need to sand the parts first. I only take it to 320 grit, as the following buff will take out those scratches easily. Any finer is a waste of time.
"Cut" is done with a spiral sewn sisal wheel and black compound.
"Color" is done with a spiral sewn cotton wheel and tan compound.
Anything finer than that (with power) is a waste of time, since the parts are dulled slightly by the other chemicals.
For extra brightness, hand rub with Mothers Mag wheel polish after power buffing.
Remove all traces of compound with lacquer thinner. This will not dull the polish. Follow up with mild soap & hot water and a soft cloth. Laundry soap, dish washing soap, and even simple green will dull the polish.
Go to the degreaser. Try just a few seconds, and look closely for continuous water break. If there are any areas that bead water, go back in the de-geaser, and rub with a soft cloth. Spend as little time as possible in the degreaser as possible, and still pass WB.
Consider ano'ing for less time/thinner layer if possible. You'll need a full 1mil for black though.
If you over anodize, it will leave a dull, soft layer (desolution... not good).
BTW buffing after ano doesn't work.

There has been lots of discussion on acid wash... try a search for that one.

[LOON]

.....same story....I had to try all the stuff before I found this Forum.....but the way Acidrain explains the gloss-finish is absolutely the same procedure I use......
Another problem buffing the Alu....don't buff it to hard/hot, 'cause the grid structure of the material will change, and might be a problem at ano.....

Just a little sample of a PB-Marker (ION)......the frame is made of cast.....


I think it's shiny enough to fix the body of this gun, which is an industrial coating.....

Greetinx LOON

P.S.: I hope ya understand my ******* *** english......sorry for that

[starns]

ok well i got the first two stages done i cut and polished it its shiney as hell. the gun has/had alot of deep scratches in it and alot came out but what is a good way to tell if they came out well enough to take ano - i know alot will be covered in the dye stage/ano stage...and can you suggest to me a good soap...