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I'm just wondering what kind of bleach you use
![]() Sounds very aggressive...... ...normal textile-bleach from walmart....here in Germany it's called "CHLORIX".....works even diluted 1:3 (3 parts water) very fine for me...... |
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Quote:
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns. |
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Ive had bleach attack 2xxx series aluminum on the old shockers, as it would attack the surface evenly as a stripper would. This NXT, it more of made large pits(Not crater, but not spec pits) covering the entire body within only 10 or so seconds from me trying to bleach the black dye out.
After a call to SP, They swear to the fact that the newer shockers are made from the highest quality 6061. I couldnt disagree more, they smut up bad, they anodize terrible, and this is what the frame looked like after I anodized it once. Whats ironic is when it was anodized, it looked like a piece of stained wood.
Last edited by destroyer125; 06-14-2007 at 12:26 AM. |
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Since Bleach, (sodium hypochlorite), has a percentage of sodium hydroxide in it, (as the byproduct in the making of it), you could try a cleaner method. Purchase a small container of trichlor granular and mix a very small amount in your distilled water. I would start out at maybe 10ppm and work up from there to get the strength that works for you. Since there are not many kits for the consumer to tell when you have 10ppm, you might have to use a regular pool tester and and judge the color of the tester to get it close.
The advantage would be not having the aggresive sodium hypochlorite mixed in with it. Chlorine bleach is made very similar to anodizing where you pass current thru an anode and cathode which splits the sodium Ion and creates chlorine and as a by product, sodium hydroxide. This is made with pure salt. Anyway, it might be worth a try. |
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I will look into it.
I did find out for all the paintball peeps here that the NXT parts are made of 6262- A lead and bismuth filled alloy. Possibly a bad luck of the draw on the frame there as far as the extrusion went? |
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