Re: fade setup
I've tried doing exactly what you're describing... it didn't work.
The problem was the lack of control, racking the part so it holds it just right, and controlling the speed of the dye was more effort than it's worth. I found doing each piece by hand works much better... you can control the location/angle of the fade line, and how wide/narrow the fade area is.
You have to realize that the fade is not linear... the beginning of the fade area is light, and the middle is heavy.
For example, if your fade area is 2 inches, start with your part dipped fully to where the fade starts, then slowly dip further increasing the speed of the dip so that the last part is dipped pretty quickly in and then back out.
Then you need to quickly pull out the part and rinse so that the beginning of the fade stays "soft".
Flip the part around and do the other color the same way.
Sometimes for dark colors like black, you'll have a hard line no matter what, and you'll need to do a chemical fade by doing the same sort of fade dip into an acid solution from the "clean" side. If you look closely at most factory fades, this is how they do it... it leaves a tell-tale acid wash/fade line. Doing it by hand makes a much nicer fade.
Same with multi-color fades like the "Rasta" fade... theose are done by chemically stripping the outer colors.
I suggest practicing on some scraps... get the hand dip thing down, then work on some chemical fades. If you can master those, you're golden!
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Specializing in anodized graphics in Paintball guns.
Last edited by acidrain; 06-23-2007 at 03:38 PM.
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