Need a list please.

[acidrain]

There is a big advantage to larger ano tank... heat sink. A smaller tank will heat quickly, and a larger tank will hold a steady temperature. The disadvantage is it will take longer to heat or cool to your target temperature... a sacrifice well worth the extra time.
To calculate BTU's generated: amps x volts x 3.413 = BTU's

Stripping ano inside breaches, barrels, etc... use an inside brush to help it along. To check for complete ano removal, use a volt-ohm meter... Ano does not conduct electricity.

Carefully measure the parts. Just like you said... triangles, rectangles, parallelogram, circles, circumferences, etc. There is a surface calculator here:http://support.caswellplating.com/in...nloaditemid=18

[Empire03]

I searched and couldn't find a answer so heres another question.What is the storage temp for dyes are does it even matter?

[acidrain]

Doesn't matter... just keep them clean with tight lids.

[Empire03]

Alright after waiting and waiting I finally got all my supplies in.I am currently in the process of organizing and setting up pretty much.I striped my first couple of parts tonight with lye.It wasn't as hard as i thought it would be.Then started buffing them.It took awhile for me to figure out what I was doing but I finally got it.Here is a picture of the part.Excuse the finger prints.



I also want to know if my cathode that I have in my tank is alright.It is 2 sheets of aluminum connected at the bottom to keep grounded.I just don't want it to be to big or something.Here is a picture

[acidrain]

Looks really good. You're ready to give it a try.

[Empire03]

Well after much frustration I bring to you my first piece or art lol.


Was supposed to be black but it seems like a dark navy blue(normal?).


I am kinda mad at myself for what I did tho.I accidentally put drinking water in the desmut so it doesn't do a lick of good.Also,I sat down and figured what 18% ration of water to acid was then made it.Which ended up to be 12 gallons of water and 2 1/4gallons of battery acid.Although I thought that was right, boy was I wrong and don't feel like waisting all that water.Turns out I was supposed to do 50 50 of water and acid that ****ed me off a little.The thing that annoyed me the most was the damn 720 rule I could not figure it out for ****.So I eventually just let the part run for 1 hr at 12 amps lol.I really need some help understanding this rule.

[sswee]

What is the SA of your part?
What are the PS limits?
SS

[Empire03]

sa? lol

my ps is capable of 12 amps and 15 volts.

[acidrain]

SA = surface area.
Your ano thickness is probably a bit thin... that's what black looks like if it's thin.
Your acid ratio should be 3:1 distilled water/battery acid. Battery acid already comes dilute, so if you're using pure sulfuric acid, the ratio is different, but for our purposes, we always talk about ratios using battery acid. To 12 gallons of water, add 4 gallons of battery acid.
Why was your de-smut ruined? Unless your drinking water is REALLY hard, it should be fine.
The 720 rule is pretty easy to do in your head if you use 6 amps per sq. ft. as a CD (current density).
Figure out your surface area in sq. ft. (144 sq. in. = 1 sq. ft.).
Multiply sq. ft. by 6 amps... that is your ano amps for this run.
Run at those amps for 2 hrs. for 1 mil build (you need 1 mil for dark colors, .75 mil for medium colors, and .5 mil for clear and gold). 1.5 hrs for .75 mil, 1 hr for .5 mil.
Your run times will always be the same... you only adjust the amps per SA (surface area).
To adjust the amps output from your PS, turn the volts all the way up, the amps all the way down, hook up your parts and start the PS. Slowly turn up the amps to the desired output, and leave it alone.
Make a chart and record what the volts and temperature is every 15 minutes. If you have problems, it will help diagnose.
Give it another try... you're getting there!

[Empire03]

Originally Posted by acidrain

SA = surface area.
Your ano thickness is probably a bit thin... that's what black looks like if it's thin.
Your acid ratio should be 3:1 distilled water/battery acid. Battery acid already comes dilute, so if you're using pure sulfuric acid, the ratio is different, but for our purposes, we always talk about ratios using battery acid. To 12 gallons of water, add 4 gallons of battery acid.
Why was your de-smut ruined? Unless your drinking water is REALLY hard, it should be fine.
The 720 rule is pretty easy to do in your head if you use 6 amps per sq. ft. as a CD (current density).
Figure out your surface area in sq. ft. (144 sq. in. = 1 sq. ft.).
Multiply sq. ft. by 6 amps... that is your ano amps for this run.
Run at those amps for 2 hrs. for 1 mil build (you need 1 mil for dark colors, .75 mil for medium colors, and .5 mil for clear and gold). 1.5 hrs for .75 mil, 1 hr for .5 mil.
Your run times will always be the same... you only adjust the amps per SA (surface area).
To adjust the amps output from your PS, turn the volts all the way up, the amps all the way down, hook up your parts and start the PS. Slowly turn up the amps to the desired output, and leave it alone.
Make a chart and record what the volts and temperature is every 15 minutes. If you have problems, it will help diagnose.
Give it another try... you're getting there!

Well damn wish you could of replied this a few hrs ago before I decided to go spend another 30 bux on acid and water.....I still couldn't figure out the 720 rule but there is another solution I found on the internet that uses 900 and is way easier for me.See my ps doesn't have an amperage knob.it has one the seems to control both.I am doing a freak back and tat reg now.I came up with a 54 minute run time at 5 amps for them 2 parts idk if its right but I hope it is.

Ya ill have results at around 930 1000 ill let you guys know how it goes.