Need a list please.

[acidrain]

What did you come up with for total surface area of those parts?
If you don't have an amps knob, you don't have a CC PS. That will be problematic for you as you won't be able to control the amps (the amps should remain constant throughout the run).

[Empire03]

well, as I figured the run wasn't that thick of ano.I decided to try blue this time.I am actually impressed with the color lol its not that bad of a color just not what I was going for.I am gonna let the parts run for a full 2hrs tomorrow and see whats up.For lime green do i have to mix colors?or is it just a light shade?

here is pics of the parts I did today.

[Empire03]

Originally Posted by acidrain

What did you come up with for total surface area of those parts?
If you don't have an amps knob, you don't have a CC PS. That will be problematic for you as you won't be able to control the amps (the amps should remain constant throughout the run).

umm I couldn't tell you off the top of my head the list is in the shop.I do however have a cc power supply.I am 100% posative.It says it on it.The amp does stay constant doesn't drop or nothing its just I cant control one or the other.

[acidrain]

Originally Posted by Empire03

umm I couldn't tell you off the top of my head the list is in the shop.I do however have a cc power supply.I am 100% posative.It says it on it.The amp does stay constant doesn't drop or nothing its just I cant control one or the other.

OK, That's good... like I said, control the amps @ sq.ft.x6, and record the temp and volts every 15 minutes. It will save you tons of guess work should something go wrong.

As for lime green, try Green AEN @ .5mil-.75mil. It makes a nice lime green.

[Empire03]

Originally Posted by acidrain

OK, That's good... like I said, control the amps @ sq.ft.x6, and record the temp and volts every 15 minutes. It will save you tons of guess work should something go wrong.

As for lime green, try Green AEN @ .5mil-.75mil. It makes a nice lime green.

ok, thanks a ton for the help so far.I did 6 parts today and had tremendous results.I tried running all 6 but 3 failed for some reason.So I ran the 3 over again both runs a 2 hrs.Still gotta work on different alloys tho.They seem to dye at different speeds.Here is pics from the runs today.(The hybrid asa was in the second run).




I do have a problem with them however,the parts seem to go cloudy when you dry them.Right now I have w40 on them and has been for about 2 hrs im gonna let that stay over night.What causes the parts to do this?

[acidrain]

I doubt this is the problem, but: A chalky, soft ano is an indication of over-anodizing. Sometimes 2xxx and 7xxx alloys will ano faster than the other alloys. The indicator for this would be when you strip the parts, they will turn black from smut. I don't want to confuse you with all the subtle differences in alloys and run times, but if you can identify the alloys. that will help.
Another thing it could be is the sealer... don't let it dry on the part.
Begin sealing when the sealer is at least 180F.
Seal for 20 or 30 minutes.
Pull the parts and immediately dunk in water... don't let the sealer dry on the parts.
Pull the parts out of the water, and while they are still wet, spray them down with WD-40 and wipe to a shine.
What about the prep? Are you able to get a good shine before going in the ano tank? The acid will dull the parts a bit, so you're never going to get a really high gloss, but if you are giving the parts an etch step, that could be the problem (no need for an etch step).

[Empire03]

Originally Posted by acidrain

I doubt this is the problem, but: A chalky, soft ano is an indication of over-anodizing. Sometimes 2xxx and 7xxx alloys will ano faster than the other alloys. The indicator for this would be when you strip the parts, they will turn black from smut. I don't want to confuse you with all the subtle differences in alloys and run times, but if you can identify the alloys. that will help.
Another thing it could be is the sealer... don't let it dry on the part.
Begin sealing when the sealer is at least 180F.
Seal for 20 or 30 minutes.
Pull the parts and immediately dunk in water... don't let the sealer dry on the parts.
Pull the parts out of the water, and while they are still wet, spray them down with WD-40 and wipe to a shine.
What about the prep? Are you able to get a good shine before going in the ano tank? The acid will dull the parts a bit, so you're never going to get a really high gloss, but if you are giving the parts an etch step, that could be the problem (no need for an etch step).

well I ran the parts for 2hrs.It could be the sealer.I have been putting them in at around 150 and figured that was hot enough.But I guess it isn't.Yes, the parts look great before they go into the acid bath.If I don't desmut them could that be the problem as well?No etching.


what do you suggest i do to prevent this from happening?

[acidrain]

There's your problem...
You have to get the sealer really hot. I let it hit 180F, then put the parts in, and start timing. When it starts to boil, turn it down to a simmer.

[Empire03]

ok, so what do I change for 2x and 7x aluminums?I have learned that the 2x ano's a lot faster.Do I just lower amps?

[sswee]

Leave the amperage settings alone. Just decrease the run time.
SS