Can't get it right.

[LotteryWinner]

I'm trying my hands at this anodizing bit but i can't seem to understand why it's not working the way I'd like it to. I'm not using the caswell kit but I'm sure it's just the same.


- using caustic soda for the etching, cleaning it in distilled water
- 6/12 volt 2/6 amp charger
- acid tank with about 15-20% acid to water with a lead cathode
- rit dye heated to roughly 50 degrees (c)

The problem seems to be that the battery charger doesn't show any amount of current going through the system. sometimes the cathode bubbles, but then seems to stop the second I walk away for five minutes. The last run I did the piece took up some red dye but was far from looking nice. It was more of an orange gold and there was little black pores in the actual surface of the aluminum.

And I don't know where to get my hands on this caswell LCD manual.

I think it could be any of these things.

- I did submerge an aligator clip in the acid when it was on for about 5 seconds and the clip turned a bit copper. (Could this have messed up the acid?)

- Should I be doing more steps after cleaning it with the caustic soda?

- Maybe it's the charger / power supply?

Note after this first peice was done I can't get the cathode to bubble anymore.

This is so frustrating.

[fourkbmx]

i started my setup with a charger, and it was a disaster trying to get the job done, i think your problem is the power source,you should consider using the 720 rule that is attached in the top of the page, is so easy and its really helpful, the 720 rule will also give you an idea of what power source is the best for you, depending on the size of the piece, and time you want the job done. you should also check your conections, when i started that was one of my main problems, because the rack anodize before the piece, and didnt let the piece anodize correctly

[LotteryWinner]

I'll do that, but are you sure that copper aligator clip wouldn't have contaminated that tank?

[fourkbmx]

yes it had happende to me a couple of times and had no problems. also after using caustic soda at 10% for about 3 min, rinse, and dip in muriatic acid 50% for about 5 secs, rinse again and dip in ano tank

[LotteryWinner]

I have never heard of that muriatic acid before. But I have heard of people using vinegar to nuetrilize the caustic soda?

And if the power supply is the problem, can I just use a light dimmer to manually vary the output to the tank?

BTW the calculator link in the sticky is MIA.

[LotteryWinner]

This is so frustrating. I spent all this money on this stuff and nothing seems to work.

I tried it again, there seems to be no point in using that 720 rule because I may get a connection for a couple seconds then it stops fizzing, the dimmer doesn't work to control the amps, the ohmeter shows nothing.


This is downright dumb. Why let it sit in a acid bath for one hour and so many minutes if I can't even get the damn thing to work.

[LotteryWinner]

Maybe I'm missing steps. I don't know. Maybe it's the charger.

Thanks for the...help.

I'm just going to toss all this ****. I've tried everything I can afford to try. No use spending more money on this junk.

[sswee]

The Rit dye isn't going to give consistent results. Been there, done that.

The charger with a dimmer switch will work minimally, must be manual type, and needs a seperate meter to check output so adjustments can be continuously made during the run to keep the necessary current flowing.

The main problem sounds like bad electrical connections. If it appears to be flowing current and stops after approximately 5 minutes, the resistance is building in the circuit and when it gets to a point, burns out the weak spot.

The 720 rule works when the basic parameters are good. You can't check fuel mileage on a car that don't run.

SS

[fourkbmx]

it would be useful if you can share a couple of pics of your setup and your experiments

[LotteryWinner]

I have the manual type. But again, it's only rated for 2 and 6 amps. If it is a connection problem I've redone and redone all the connections to the peice to the bar going across the top holding the anode and anything else. I've tried replacing the aluminum rack across the top with wood and screws, I've tried larger guage wire, I've stuck peices of wood between the wire and the metal so it's as tight as it can be. usually the connections are fine.

Ugh.

I'll try the connections once more.

And sorry about no pics, I don't have a way of uploading pics from my camera to the computer atm.

But it's basic. Charger straight to the tank with a lead cathode with more surface area then my aluminum test chunks. Negative to the cathode, positive to the rack across the top. Aluminum wire tight down all the way to the peice.

Nil. sorry guys, and thanks for any help.