Anno in the basement?

[kidneythief]

Hey guys,

With winter fast approaching and the sub zero temps we get here in eastern Washinton im looking to move my line indoors. Will there be any concerns with transporting my set-up down into the climate controled semi-finished basement? Will the fumes be too much for indoor anodizing? I can ventillate if need be but would like to avoide that.

My next question is about the lead GP plates. Im also looking to step my main acid tank up to a 18 gal rubbermade with a dedicated airation set-up, ect. Is there a specific formula for use in calculating the size of the GP plates required per gallon or something? Do I need larger plates for a larger tank? Also, can I leave the Lead plates in the solution premenantly?

Again Thanks guys!

-Jake

[Z]

In most type II anodizing the size of the Cathodes are not to big of a concern but it is written that a 3-1 cathode to anode is ideal.

Be safe when moving your tanks to their new spot, last thing you want is a spill. How small is this new area compared to your old and how badly were the fumes in the shop you have your set-up in now?

[stevepelle91]

Your cathode should be roughly the size of your biggest run possible. So lets say you have a 20 amp PS, your biggest run would be about 3.3 sq feet. So a 3x1 sheet of lead would be fine, 4x1 preferably. I don't use caswells GP plates so i don't know how big or thick they are.

[acidrain]

Air agitation makes WAY more fumes than mechanical agitation. I use air agitation, and even in my well ventilated garage, the small exhaust hood wasn't enough. I ended up making a huge exhaust hood from a forced air heater fan.
Consider using a really big circulating pump, or even a simple propeller-on-a-stick run by an electric motor.
As for the cathode, go big.

[mkriegs]

You could also consider a magnetic stirring setup for agitation. I've never seen it mentioned before but I've always considered trying it out, I don't see why it wouldn't work (those bars may be small but you can get them going pretty fast).

here's the equipment you'd be looking at:
TROEMNER VWR 200 Mini-Stirrer 58940-158 4"x5" magnetic - eBay (item 320298483867 end time Sep-17-08 10:15:00 PDT)

Fisherbrand Magnetic Stir bar (76 x 13mm) 3 x 1/2" new - eBay (item 380062896661 end time Sep-16-08 20:40:49 PDT)


The electronic stirrer units are traditionally placed on the bottom of the container, but it would probably be a better option to tip the unit on it's side and have the stir bar on the edge of the tank.

This would probably be a good solution for agitating dyes as well.

[coopduc]

Any idea of the max gap between the unit and the magnet and still work? I'm thinking about mounting one up against the underside of the tabletop with the magnet in the bin, so maybe the gap is about 1". Any idea if this would work?

[mkriegs]

It should work as long as the surface holding the magnet is smooth enough. If the magnet keeps getting stuck because the bottom of your tank isn't smooth you could try putting a piece of plexiglass or something under the magnet.

EDIT - would it be possible to cut out a hole in the table the exact size of the stirrer so that you eliminate the gap?

[Paintballstuff_n_more]

Originally Posted by Z

In most type II anodizing the size of the Cathodes are not to big of a concern but it is written that a 3-1 cathode to anode is ideal.

Be safe when moving your tanks to their new spot, last thing you want is a spill. How small is this new area compared to your old and how badly were the fumes in the shop you have your set-up in now?

were cna i find some info about the types of annoa nd info on general?any book cd or web page?
Thnks

[acidrain]

Google is your friend, Try downloading the google toolbar... it even has a spell check feature.
Anodizing types - Google Search