newbie here with a quick question

[jay814u]

Hi everyone im setting up a new anno line and was wondering what everyone is using to hook up there PSU to cathode does any one type of wire work better than another are you using alligator clips to attatch to lead cathodes any help would be appreciated

[acidrain]

On my set up, I have my cathode running up and out of the tank and bent over the side a couple of inches.
I attach stranded copper wires with hoop style crimp connections and a stainless screw.

For the anodes, I have a SS angle with studs that I can screw my cross bars onto.

[jay814u]

thanks acidrain i don't think my cathodes are long enough to reach up over the sides that's why I was wondering what to use that can be inside the tank and how to attatch it to the lead cathodes

[dmiom]

Originally Posted by jay814u

thanks acidrain i don't think my cathodes are long enough to reach up over the sides that's why I was wondering what to use that can be inside the tank and how to attatch it to the lead cathodes

hi Jay, good questions

first, can I suggest you have a quick look at this recent post here where we discussed cathodes, and in particular, the technique of using a thin strip bent up from the lead plate to reach back-over the rim.

I think you've already picked up the idea that it is best to keep the connections out of reach of the acid - absolutely certainly out of the liquid acid, and if possible out of reach of the inevitable acid vapour that is above the surface.

Most folk use 'conventional' heavy gauge copper wire - the sort you might get from an auto-electrical store might do, but it tends to be a little inflexible - possibly OK for fixed cathodes but if you're reconnecting every time to the anodic tank bar or other suspension rods etc., try and get something a little more flexible.

You may see some folk have (tried to) make the connection to their cathode by using bolts through the middle of the cathode and then out through the side of the tank. Given the constraints on which metal can be in there (basically ali, lead or titanium) and the way ali bolts oxidise, you're probably left with using titanium bolts. However, any hole in the tank is best avoided - you have to find some way of gasketing or caulking to avoid leaks - far better, if you can, to bring your cathode to the suitable connection point.

For connecting the ends of the wire to the lead sheet, what we do is scrape the surface of the lead to get bare metal, punch a small hole in the lead tail, then fit the end of the wire with the type of eyelet connector you typically see used on a car to connect auxillaries to the battery. You can use a standard auto crimp; even better if you solder (but you will need a heavy-duty soldering iron to solder the eyelet on). Then we use a stainless steel nut & bolt, together with serrated anti-vibration washers to bite into the lead. Then, if you want, either insulate it or coat in petroleum jelly or vaseline just like you would car battery terminals.

The Aligator clips you mentioned can be used for the anode & cathode; and whilst their teeth are good to initally break through any surface oxides etc., they aren't the best for a long-term connection, and certainly wouldn't be suitable for use inside the tank. If you can, wire it up solidly as above, and if necessary fit polarised quick-release bullet connectors or similar further back away from the tank. If you are going to use alligator clips, make sure they're colour coded! (and maybe also use appropriately coloured tape on the cathode tails & the end of your tank bar as well).

cheers / Dave

[jay814u]

Thanks for the thorough answer its much appreciated i think im going to try and fold a strip back up out of container and see how that works