Splash masking questions

[42etus]

OK, I'm ready to try splashing some parts. I think I get the idea behind doing it.

1-Ano part normaly
2-Dye splash color
3-Apply rubber cement, allow to dry
4-Bleach
5-Rinse well
6-Dye background color
7-Remove rubber cement
8-Seal normaly

Have I missed anything? Also do you dry the part before applying the rubber cement to get it to stick? What do you use for the bleach? The wife's laundry bleach? Diluted with water? Does the rubber cement leave any residue that must be removed before sealing?
Sorry for so many questions but I put a lot of time into the parts I make and don't want to screw them up.
Thanks,
Paul

[acidrain]

Add 1 step... after washing with bleach (full strength laundry bleach) and rinsing, wash again in 1:3 battery acid/water mix, and then rinse thoroughly.

Yes, allow the surface to dry before applying the rubber cement.

Seal normally, THEN remove the rubber cement with laquer thinner, or better yet, toulene.
You can reduce the rubber cement a bit if you want with toulene... not many other solvents will reduce it.
After you remove the rubber cement, seal some more just to make sure.

[42etus]

Acidrain, thanks for the reply. That is just the information I was looking for.
Paul

[42etus]

I tried a splash for the first time today. I like the results. These are a single color splash, tomorrow I'll try a 2 color. I used toluene (sp) to remove the rubber cement. Let the parts soak for about 5 minutes, then used a toothbrush. The cement came off very easily. Here's the results.

[acidrain]

Looks great!

[LTHG]

Originally Posted by acidrain

Add 1 step... after washing with bleach (full strength laundry bleach) and rinsing, wash again in 1:3 battery acid/water mix, and then rinse thoroughly.

What exactly does this step do?

[Empire03]

Completely removes the base color.When you put the parts back in acid it will open the pores back up allowing all dye to drain out of the pours.It also helps eliminate shadowing around the cement.

[LTHG]

Originally Posted by Empire03

Completely removes the base color.When you put the parts back in acid it will open the pores back up allowing all dye to drain out of the pours.It also helps eliminate shadowing around the cement.

Shadows like these?



We tried it with some 2011, and noticed no improvement or differences.
The only thing that removed shadowing for us around the rubber cement was lowering the anodizing time.

[LTHG]

We ran 8 test pieces of 2011, all of them were getting a "shadow" and these pictures can show somewhat of a timeline of our progress and how we solved the solution.
The pieces start left to right.

Part # / Anodize Time
1 83 min
2 75 min
3 64 min
4 45 min
5 60 min (no etch/desmut)
6 40 min (no etch/desmut)
7 35 min (no etch/desmut)
8 25 min (no etch/desmut)
9 25 min (part was test piece #1 going for round 2 so we could see how the metal would react to multiple runs. Stripped for 3 min desmut - 3 min)

Pieces 1-4


Pieces 5-8


We never had an issue with any type of shadowing on 6xxx.

Overall on the 2011, we had the most luck with splash when the anno times were kept low, and we did not etch or desmut. Parts 8&9 were the best.

Kinda off topic, I know. However, since the conversation and topic of shadowing was brought up, I thought I would chime in.

[Empire03]

I read about your problems earlier.What I dont understand is how you can run a part for 25 minutes and get the color of a 1mill layer.It just doesnt add up.Are you running the 2xx at the same volts as 6xx?I have found 2xx runs 2 volts lower than 6xxx.

anyway,All the shadowing I ever had was resolved by a dip in acid.