I just filtered out my nickel solution, and when I replenished the brightener, the quart, 32oz, was good for 6 gallons. The same brightener is used for nickel and copy chrome. It works out to 5 1/3 fl. oz of brightener per gallon of solution.
The samples shown really wouldn't be from over-amping the copy chrome. I've done it, it burns it, builds a little higher on the edges of the top and bottom-It'll cause some adhesion problems, but we're talking a percentage. For some reason you are getting zero adhesion. Thats either from a precleaning or activation problem. But even if it were those problems, the plate would still look ''ok''. The haziness can come from not rinsing well afterward, and too much hydrogen peroxide will make it look like that. But if you added to much hydrogen peroxide(you would have had to have added it, it won't just build up), that'll get plated out, or a higher temperature will steam it out. An immersion plate will look really similar to that, where there is no complete circuit, but that can't be because you are getting an amp reading.
A ''AA'' battery puts out 1.5v. Try running the bath with a few in series, just to rule out a PS problem.
If you added to much brightener, you'd have plated some of that out when you dummy cycled it, how did that turn out? That wouldn't give you adhesion issues though.
Also, go right from the sandblaster onto pipe, obviously not the finish you'd normally look for all the time. Clean it before hand like you said you normally do, rinse, then go right from rinse to live in the tank. The blasting will take care of the final cleaning and activation. That'd point to a problem in the prep process.
You didn't prior to this at some point reverse the polarity?, or not rinse properly and dragged-in to much junk?
Sorry if that bounces around to much, typing as I'm thinking...
If not for anything else, be sure to try the batteries!
-Jimmy


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