CopyChrome nuts and bolts

[68commando]

Hi,

I am restoring my 69 Norton and I was wondering about CopyChroming some of the special nuts, bolts and spacers that are very expensive to buy as stainless steel parts. I want to do this not only as protection from rust but also to make the nuts and bolts look good. Can I get by using the plug n plate kit? I do not have a lot of stuff to do. Is the immersion technique pretty good with that kit? Do I have to worry about plating the threads or is the tolerance/plating not that critical? I probably have about 20 or so nuts and bolts to do.

Thanks,
Dave

[jimcarry]

You should be fine using the p and p if you don’t want to plate the threads you can simply tape them off I use electric tape.

[68commando]

Thanks Jim,

As near as I can tell, I can copy chrome plate about 2.5 sq ft of material with the 8 oz of copy chrome solution which I ordered. I scaled it down from the 1.5 g kit that would do 60 sq ft. That should be plenty for me.

Some of the things I want to plate already have old worn or pitted chrome on it, so I assume I need to remove this chrome and start over again with the copy chrome, but do I need to remove the nickel plate and copper if it has any?

I read your other posts about removing chrome, so it looks like I have several options. I did get some chrome remover and the nylon wheel too. I have plenty of sulphuric acid and muriatic acid too.

Do I need to worry about plating the threads, or is the plating thin enough not to worry about that? Some of the parts I have are Whitworth threads and they seem to be somewhat tighter than the UNF threads.

Is removing copy chrome like removing chrome or is it like removing nickel? Just wondered in case I mess up to start with.

You suggest keeping the plating current at 1 amp for 32 sq in which turns into 31.25 ma for 1 sq inch which is probably about the size most of my items will be. I see in the plating book it talks about 50-60 ma per inch. I guess I will have to be doing some expermenting. I have a nice adjustable current power supply (up to 50 A) here so that will be no problem. I also have some smaller current limited supplies too. Electronics is my other hobby.

Thanks,
Dave

[jimcarry]

Originally Posted by 68commando

Thanks Jim,

As near as I can tell, I can copy chrome plate about 2.5 sq ft of material with the 8 oz of copy chrome solution which I ordered. I scaled it down from the 1.5 g kit that would do 60 sq ft. That should be plenty for me.

Some of the things I want to plate already have old worn or pitted chrome on it, so I assume I need to remove this chrome and start over again with the copy chrome, but do I need to remove the nickel plate and copper if it has any?

I read your other posts about removing chrome, so it looks like I have several options. I did get some chrome remover and the nylon wheel too. I have plenty of sulphuric acid and muriatic acid too.

Do I need to worry about plating the threads, or is the plating thin enough not to worry about that? Some of the parts I have are Whitworth threads and they seem to be somewhat tighter than the UNF threads.

Is removing copy chrome like removing chrome or is it like removing nickel? Just wondered in case I mess up to start with.

You suggest keeping the plating current at 1 amp for 32 sq in which turns into 31.25 ma for 1 sq inch which is probably about the size most of my items will be. I see in the plating book it talks about 50-60 ma per inch. I guess I will have to be doing some expermenting. I have a nice adjustable current power supply (up to 50 A) here so that will be no problem. I also have some smaller current limited supplies too. Electronics is my other hobby.

Thanks,
Dave

you will need to remove the old chrome you can not plate over chrome.
on the sq inches if you havew a part say 50 sq inch devide 50 by 32 to get you amp setting . removing copy chrome i use a scrubber wheel caswells sells works great if i can help you ferther give me a call at 479-639-2575