yellow tint?

[shawnkloker]

Is anybody else having trouble with their copychrome turning a yellow tinted color after being outside exposed to the weather after about a week?

[jimcarry]

Shawn
I’d like to see the piece you are talking about . Im also wandering if you are putting any thing to protect the part after plating and then again about three weeks later should use a once a year car polish or collinite metal wax or if maybe your plate was not thick enough or if this was a part you did while your tank was contaminated lots of questions here give ma call if I can help

[jandjwoodwinds]

I have also run into the yellow tint issue on some custom motorcycle parts using a nickel base and copy krome. I need some ideas so I can keep customers happy.

HIS,
Doc

www.JandJWoodwinds.com
JandJ_Woodwinds@bellsouth.net
318-780-9098

[jimcarry]

Hey guys wats up
the yellow tint could be caused by metals left in the plating solution after you have plated an object please be sure you are filtering your solutions to prevent these metals from building up on the bottom of your tank these metals will rust and be plated on to future items

[jandjwoodwinds]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info. The only problem is that it was the first job through the solution!

HIS,
Doc

[KCV6]

Having investigated this problem myself, I have come to the conclusion it is because we are not plating withing the optimum temperature/ASI window for our tanks. Copy chrome is a Nickle Cobalt Alloy, NiCo with unfortunately a very high ratio of Cobalt salts (assumption), hence the solution being so red (assumption). Nickle and cobalt plate at different rates (fact). If too much cobalt is crystalised with the nickle it will tarnish yellow (assumption based on some knowledge. LOL).

Unfortunately increasing the temperature of a NiCo mix will make it throw further, but it will also change the ratio of the NiCo alloy. Changing the ASI will also change the ratio.

About all I can suggest is to try what has worked for the likes of Jim and others and fine tune it to suit your needs. Unfortunately metal plating is an art. Here is a good trick that all good plating shops use. Get a Notebook and for every piece you do, write down exactly what the temp of the solution was and try to calculate the ASI as accurately as possible and write it down. If you have a digital camera, take a pic of the item with a ruler for referance and keep this pic, put all this info into a spreadsheet linked to the pics. Eventually you will come up with the perfect combination that you can refer back too. Even better you will be able to work out trends as to what to expect in the way of results.

If you are selling plated items, as many seem to be doing on here, this info is also valuable as you can produce professional reports for customers on their items you have plated.

Just persist with it, Also tanks tend to improve with age.

Cheers

Mark

[tbreaden]

I had this problem about 4 months ago. I had not been plating much over the winter, my tank set for about 6 weeks at 40 deg. I have the wheel chroming kit and was told the larger kits like mine are cobalt only. I cleaned tank and found a rusty sludge in bottom. Now I run a filter when plating and remove anodes and clean after every use. Bath temp 70 to 80 deg. and make sure you have a good sealed anode bags. I have not had any problems since. (except plating pot metal) Todd

[john1951]

Hi I have the same problem even with the very first items I plated. I followed the temps and amps per the directions . Had the slight yellow tint right after buffing the parts. not as white as real chrome. Some types of lights make it look much wurse than others next to the triple chrome stuff on my bike. I waxed it and still no difference.