First Try

[gcyeaw]

I purchased the Copy Chrome/Flash copper kit and have been following the examples in the triple chroming video using copper pipe. It is not easy to determine the effectiveness of flash copper plating on a copper pipe. When I take it out of the solution it is a flat copper color. I polish it up and it looks fine, but I don't know if I have polished the flash-copper off or not.

I went to the Copy Chrome tank and plated for an hour. The finish was excellent. There are some defects, but I can attribute them to preperation.

I have a steel searchlight cover that is rusted in places. I ordered the pickle #4 and 'acid copper' kit to treat the rust and build a heavier layer of copper to fill the pits from the rust.

I also have, heaven forbid, some pot metal objects to do. I have read many posts on handling this and I realize that it is a real pain to get it done. I hope to first prepare the opjects thoroughly and then flash copper plate them. After this I would like to acid copper plate them to build up the surface and go through several plating/sanding sessions until I have a smooth surface. I may need to use some solder in the larger pits, but eventually I hope to have a plateable object.

Any comments?

Gardner

[KCV6]

Hi Gardner,

With the flash copper, I have found that it goes on quite bright and with a "reasonable shine" if the underlying material is first polished. The more polished the base, the more polished the finish. I have never managed a full polished look from the flash copper tank.

I have only been using flash copper and CC on rusted and badly pitted automotive brackets etc and have had relatively good success.

I wire brush and scotchbrite wheel the items first to remove any existing chrome and the bulk of the rust. I then use a 10% hydrocloric acid bath to remove all remaining rust. Basically a 2 parts tap water to 1 part pool acid mix. this also strips any unwanted zinc.

I believe a vital step when using acid to strip is to thouroughly rinse the part and bake in an oven for at least 1 hour at 240 deg C or more, the higher the temp the better. this will help the metal to outgas and prevent embrittlement.

I have avoided the Acid copper (wife says no. LOL) and used the solder method to fill any pits. I have found that 30 minutes of flash copper followed by solder fill and sand/scotchbrite wheel followed by 30 minutes more flash copper works well. the item is then buffed and CC'd. I repeat the flash copper and solder process until the item is defect free. I believe you will have faster results with the acid copper, with less itterations of tank, fill, sand, tank, fill,sand. Would love Acid copper.

As for the Pot metal.... will let you know, have my first piece in process now. flash copper covered perfetly and have soldered all the pits. Am currently cleaning up the solder with my dremmel ready for a second flash copper.

Best of luck with the plating.

Mark

[gcyeaw]

Mark,
Thanks for your reply.
I have been working this pot metal part to the point of insanity. I managed to get a good flash copper plate, and then used the solder/flux product to try to fill the pits. Some of them required drilling to get to the bottom. I have marginal success filling them with solder. At first I used a dremmil tool to clean out the pits, then I graduated to a larger drill to create a wider pit to allow the solder to get to the bottom, but I still can't seem to get it to flow properly all the time.

Thank the Lord I started with a scrap piece. It is an older and more worn part, but is identicle to the part I want to plate.

Gardner

[KCV6]

LOL, know your pain.......

Trying to get the solder flush and clean for a second crack at flash copper has kept me in the workshop for way too many hours. One saving grace, is I now know having completed some easier bits that the hard work will be worth it in the end.

Cheers Gardner and best of luck

[goldmankc]

muggyweld for potmetal has worked the best for me so far. Not much for the money though.
Clint www.muggyweld.com