New formula requires 0.14amps (140ma) per sq in.
I saw a reply by Lance Caswell to a post in which he said that zinc requires 0.140 amps per square inch. Is this true? Thats a lot of current for zinc plating. I have been using 0.025 amps per square inch with the old CopyCad solution in my small bath and I sometimes go to 0.050 amps per square inch in my 1.5 gallon bath. I get fairly good results and I don't use the brightener (because it doesn't work) and I polish everything with a wire wheel and then follow with chromate.
I was thinking about buying the new CopyCad bath but I am concerned that it will require so much current.
Any comments?
Thanks
Jerry Hudgens
New formula requires 0.14amps (140ma) per sq in.
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Lance Caswell
Caswell Inc
http://www.caswellplating.com
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Is it possible to combine the old solution with the new solution? My old solution still works well but I would like to increase the size of my tank.
Also, do you still sell the old solution? I am used to it and know how to get fairly good plating results out of it.
Jerry Hudgens
Jerry:I've tried to convince you before, unsuccessfully... I have been using 0.025 amps per square inch with the old CopyCad solution in my small bath and I sometimes go to 0.050 amps per square inch in my 1.5 gallon bath. I get fairly good results and I don't use the brightener (because it doesn't work) ...
.05 ASI is not enough for the old formula. The OEM manufacturers current density range is .067 - .167 ASI. I am still using the old formula, going on 5 years. I plate at .085-.100 ASI, it comes out great, and takes brightener beautifully.
I am also using the new formula, at .140 ASI, it plates & brightens beautifully (no need to "double" the current density as has been suggested.)
It's not that .140 ASI seems too high, but that you've been plating too low all along. And that's why your brightener "doesn't work". I never have to do anything to parts after plating. Brightened parts come out of the bath looking almost like chrome.
Try it, you might like it![]()
Seans Zinc Plating page
Before being so quick to dismiss what others get to work, accept that every situation is different. Beyond using the manual to get consistent results, you can experiment some, and if it works for you then stick with it.
James Bateman
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Lance Caswell
Caswell Inc
http://www.caswellplating.com
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Sean,
You are right. I know on the plating current for the old bath that I am using a low current. But, when I plate at the higher currents I get dark areas (a lot) and grainy deposits. I think its because my bath is only a 1.5 gallon bath and the distance from my parts to the anodes is not great. So, I plate at the lower currents and plate over twice as long. I admit I do not get the best results with complex parts that have recesses and so I have to re-do some parts. But overall, I get pretty good plating and I get good chromate takes. I have used auxiliary anodes on occasion and that has helped.
James
Good point. I have tried a lot of different things over the last 6 years or so and now have settled into a somewhat standard routine and standard setup that works OK for me. I have eliminated all sources of iron contamination in the bath. I have to polish everything with the wire wheel, but thats life. I may try the brightener once again but before it did nothing for me. I just don't want to waste my money on a brightener that doesn't work.
Thanks for the replies
Jerry Hudgens
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